Best not Try This In The Winter, But Once They Can Swim It Looks Fun

When you first introduce your gundog to water, it can be a joy and a frustration.  You have a dog that should in all intense and purposes love the water.  You are expecting your dog to jump right in and start swimming but then, when you finally get out to the water; your dog not only refuses to go in but also behaves as though you are trying to dip him in acid.

This is where the frustration can come from.  You want your dog to enjoy himself but you also want him to enjoy himself in the water.  Still, some gundogs are just not willing to get into the water and this can put many of them at risk for a negative experience.  Some owners, especially novice owners, will simply place their puppy in water, regardless of their dog’s stress.  This should never be done since it has the potential to ruin your gundog.

Instead, introducing your gundog takes the same patience and fortitude that introducing your gundog to anything in their training.  If they don’t go in the first time, just try again and again until they go into the water.

Even with that thought in mind, there are a number of ways that you can introduce your gundog to water to make it both enjoyable and easy.

Use an older dog.

If you can, bring along an older dog that loves water.  This will give your young gundog someone to learn from. When the older dog goes in and is enjoying himself, your younger one will begin to wander in simply to be with the older dog.  J

Start in a lake or other slow moving (still) water

Starting in moving water can be a big mistake for several reasons. First, the gundog puppy could be pulled under by a strong current or taken too far downstream.  Safety is important when introducing your gundog to water.

Second, the gundog puppy may be more hesitant about entering water that is moving. This can create a negative experience from the start and will make other trips to water much harder.

Lastly, your gundog puppy may become distracted by the noise of the water and will have more difficulty focusing on you and also on what you are trying to do.

Make it a game

The last tip that I have for introducing the gundog puppy to water is to make it fun and make it a game.  When you puppy first gets to the water, throw out a dummy for him to retrieve, if he does retrieve, a few inches from the shoreline.  Your puppy will only get his feet wet but if he wants the dummy, he will have to touch the water.

When he is comfortable retrieving from a few inches away, throw the dummy a little further.  Go slow with this process and make sure that your puppy is comfortable with the new depth. Before you know it, your gundog puppy will be more than happy to dive in after anything you throw out.

It is important when you do introduce your gundog to water that you never correct or punish him for not going in the water. This is a different feel, smell and overall experience for your dog so let him dictate the length of time it takes.  If you do, you will be overjoyed with the result.

For a overview of training why not try our beginners guide to gundog dvd avaliable at amazon.com and amazon.co.uk

A few weeks ago, I brought up a few non-hereditary health problems that you should be aware of.  These problems are not considered to be breed specific but can affect any breed of dog, regardless of predisposition, age, or health.  They can be caused for a number of reasons and are not linked to any genetic inheritance.

As I mentioned in part one of Non-Hereditary Health Problems in Hunting dogs, there are a number of health problems that are seen more commonly in gundog breeds than in other breeds.  This isn’t to say that they are genetic but it is a fact that some traits in gundogs, such as pendulous ears, can lead to problems.

It is important, like it is with hereditary health problems, to be aware of the problems that may arise with your gun dog and his health.

Sebaceous Cysts: Sebaceous cysts, also known as epidermal inclusion cysts, wens, epidermoid cysts and epidermal cysts are a very common occurrence in many dog breeds. A sebaceous cyst is a follicular cyst that is filled with an oily substance called sebum and is located on the dog’s skin.  There is no specific age when the dog can have a sebaceous cyst and usually there is no real affect on a dog since the cysts are generally free of pain and are benign.

Sebaceous cysts can range in size from very small kernels to large sized cysts that are roughly the same size as a walnut.  Many times the cysts can be left without any problems to the dog but occasionally they can burst and a thick, cheesy white mass will be expelled when they do.  Other times, vets will recommend a biopsy on the cyst or they will recommend that the cyst is surgically removed.

Acute Moist Dermatitis: Also known as hot spots, Acute Moist Dermatitis is a disease that can affect a number of dog breeds and it can be caused by a number of factors.  These factors can be ear infections, poor grooming, mites, burs, mites and allergies. They can also be caused by some medical problems such as hip dysplasia and anal gland disease.  Generally, dogs with dense undercoats or long hair are more commonly affected by hot spots, which can be found in various places on the dog but more commonly on the hip, chest and head.

When there is a case of acute moist dermatitis it is usually a circular lesion on the body that is very raw and is inflamed.  It can be very painful for the dog and usually the first symptom is the dog worrying at a site and biting, licking and scratching the area.  This causes more problems and can lead to more inflammation or pyotrumatic dermatitis, which is self-trauma through worrying a site.  Acute moist dermatitis can progress quickly and can go from a small inflamed area to a large diameter within the matter of a few hours and can result in hair loss in the affected spot.

Treatment of Acute moist dermatitis always begins by finding the factor that led to the skin inflammation. If they can find a cause, it is better to treat the underlying cause as well as the lesion.  Generally, it is treated by removing the hair around the lesion and then cleaning the skin of the dog and finally treating with desiccating powders.  If the dog has a severe case of acute moist dermatitis antibiotics, anti-inflammatories and pain killers may be given to the dog.

Periodontal Disease: Periodontal disease in dogs is caused by the build up of plaque on the teeth and leads to tartar that irritates the gums.  This can lead to gingivitis, which can be the main cause of your dog’s bad breath.  Unfortunately, tartar can lead to other problems and if it builds up under the gums, it will begin to form pockets between the gum and teeth that becomes the breeding ground for bacteria.  It is at this point where it has become poor dental hygiene and has moved into the realm of periodontal disease.

Periodontal disease can lead to a number of problems for the dog including loose teeth, bone loss in the jaw, infection or abscesses.  It can be very painful for the dog.  Symptoms of periodontal disease can be bad breath, gums that are inflamed, or bleed, loss of appetite, stomach upset,, purulent pus around teeth, sensitivity of the mouth, loose teeth, drooling and difficulty chewing.

Treatment of periodontal disease is different depending on how it affects the dog but it can be surgery, tooth extraction, and medications.  It is important to note that good dental health is important for dogs and periodontal disease can be avoided with proper care and with early treatment when signs of gingivitis are evident.

Panosteitis:  Panosteitis is a bone disease that is seen in many large breeds but has been seen in several types of hunting dogs, including the Golden Retriever and the Labrador Retriever. The cause of Panosteitis is still unknown and while it may be linked to genetics, it is still unclear enough that it is not categorized as an inherited disease in breeds.

Panosteitis affects young dogs between the ages of 6 to 18 months and it can last from 2 to 18 months, although 2 to 5 is most commonly seen.  It is characterized by a painful remodelling of the bone and is seen in the limbs of the dog.  Specifically it is found in the ulna, femur, tibia, radius, humerus, foot and pelvic bones.

Generally, the symptoms are an acute sudden lameness in one or more of the legs in a young dog.  This lameness is not associated with any trauma and it can last for 2 to 3 weeks at a time and may shift from each leg.  The dog usually has no inclination to exercise and may not want to walk.  Usually, the dog shows symptoms of being in pain and he may also have a fever, or elevated white blood cell count.

There is no known treatment for Panosteitis so the symptoms are usually treated and the dog may be prescribed pain relief and antibiotics. Prognosis for the dog is usually good and the bones usually return back to normal after 2 to 18 months.

This is a quick video showing some typical Large Munsterlander Gundog

If one was looking for a breed of dog that was built to work, then one doesn’t have to look farther than this athletic dog that is covered in an attractive coat of mottled black and white. The Large Munsterlander gundog is a hard working gundog breed that has all the enthusiasm that one would expect from a hunting dog.

The breed is courageous and is known for their ability to be versatile in the field. They are very intelligent and combined with their eagerness to please, they are very quick to learn and with the proper guidance will stay on course when they are in the field.

When they are at home, they are a loving pet and do better if they can live in the home with their owners. In addition, they thrive when they have ample time with their family and can suffer from separation anxiety if they are left too long. They do very well with other dogs and with children but they are not suited for homes with small pets.

In addition, they are also not suited for apartment life and will do much better if they have an active family that is willing to give it the attention and exercise the breed needs.

Pro’s and con’s of owning an Large Munsterlander

The Large Munsterlander is a versatile gundog that seems to be the perfect breed for both home and field. They are happy to work in a number of tasks and usually seem happiest when they are at work. When they aren’t working, they make excellent family dogs and they are very loyal to their owners. Unfortunately, they can be overly clingy and if they are not properly exercised or stimulated, they can be very destructive. The Large Munsterlander is an active dog that is not suited for everyone and it is important to be aware of their pros and cons before you purchase one.

The Pro’s

One look at the Large Munsterlander and you can see that it is a beautiful breed with its unique black and white mottled coat and large dark eyes. This is an intelligent breed that has shown its worth in the field as a versatile gundog that can be used in a variety of ways including pointing, retrieving and tracking.

• They are a rare breed and most are bred for gundog work

• They are very intelligent and are usually very eager to please. This makes them easier to train.

• They are very sociable and do well in homes with other dogs.

• The Large Munsterlander is a gentle breed and they do very well with children.

• They are a hard working breed.

The Con’s

The Large Munsterlander has proved too many sportsmen that they are an amazing breed of dog that is versatile in the field and at home but they are not a breed for everyone. This is an active breed that prefers family life to kennel and they may not be suitable for everyone.

• They can be very vocal dogs.

• They are a rare breed of dog so the waiting lists can be quite long and they can be expensive. In addition, many breeders only sell to hunting families.

• The Large Munsterlander is an average shedder with periods in the year where they are high shedders.

• They require a fair amount of grooming.

• They are not suited for homes that have small animals since they do have a strong prey drive.

• The Large Munsterlander is not suited for kennel life and will become destructive if they are separated from their family for long periods of time.

• They are active dogs that require at least 60 minutes of exercise per day, sometimes more.

• They are not suited for apartments and do much better in a home with a large fenced yard.

• They can be very mouthy and are prone to nipping and chewing.

Health Issues:

The Large Munsterlander is a very healthy breed and as of now, many studies are being put forward to test the health issues in the breeds. As it stands, there are very few health problems but it is important to purchase from a reputable breeder that has properly screened their dogs before breeding to insure that the breed remains healthy. Some issues that are seen in the Large Munsterlander are:

• Hip Dysplasia

• Eye Problems

Height & Weight:

The Large Munsterlander is a medium sized dog that has the appearance of a well balanced athletic breed. They are well muscled with well sprung ribs, slightly tucked up abdomen and a square body that is the same length as it is high. They should be elegant in appearance with enough muscle to appear solid but not bulky.

The size of a Large Munsterlander is:

Males: 24 to 26 inches (60 to 65 cm) tall

Females: 23 to 25 inches (58 to 63 cm) tall

Weight for both the male and female Large Munsterlander should be 50 to 70 pounds (23 to 32 kg.)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

The Large Munsterlander’s grooming needs are actually different between male and female and it usually is because of the length of the coat. Females have a shorter coat than males and because of this, the female’s only need to be brushed once or twice a week to keep the fur free of any debris, mats and dead hairs. Males, on the other hand, require a brushing either daily or every other day.

The breed on the whole, is considered to be an average shedder but there are periods in the year when they are heavy shedders. During this time, the dog should be brushed frequently to keep the amount of hair to a minimal.

Bathing should only be done when the dog needs it and can be done on a monthly or bi-monthly basis, although some dogs can be bathed less and some need to be bathed more. Care should be taken of the ears and they should be kept clean and dry to prevent ear infections.

Nails should be kept trimmed and any excess hair should be trimmed from between the toes.

Life Expectancy: 12 to 13 years

History:

The Large Munsterlander can trace its origins back to Germany and is believed to have been developed in Munster, Germany. Although the breed is still fairly young, it is believed to be traced back to the early 1800’s but it was considered to be a color variation of the German Longhaired Pointer.

It wasn’t until the early 1900’s that the Large Munsterlander was recognized for what it really was, a versatile hunting dog that was separate from the German Longhaired Pointer. The Large Munsterlander club was formed in 1919 and the breed was imported to the United States in 1966 where it has continued to grow slowly in popularity.

Grouping:

Gun Dog

Recognition:

LMCNA, FCI, KCGB, NKC, NZKC, CKC, ANKC, APRI, ACR

Click For more on large Munsterlander gundog

I Was hoping to give you a video of sam on his first duck shoot this week but due to a few training issues in the last week, i have got a film of a similar aged labrador which is retreiving some ducks.

Even though 10-12 months is to early to be taking dogs shooting on proper shoots you can introduce them to some duck, will show you sam in the next few weeks, for more on sams training go to hunting dog training

That brings us to this weeks topic of what makes a good duck shooting gundog

Like many other types of gundogs, there really is no mystery about what that gundog is used for. A goose or duck-shooting gundog is one, in simple terms, that is used for hunting goose and duck.

Of course, there is never juts a simple explanation and I wouldn’t feel right if I didn’t get into it a bit more than simply stating the obvious. In general, a duck or goose-shooting gundog is a gundog that can work on both land and water. This is the dog that can sit with you as you wait patiently for the ducks or goose and it is a dog that does not start at the sudden gunfire that can occur during a duck hunt.

In addition, the goose/duck shooting gundog is one that doesn’t become overly excited as the birds fly overhead and takes off in pursuit of them.

With a goose/duck shooting gundog, your gundog will sit patiently in the blind or wherever you are sitting until you give the command to retrieve the birds that you have shot. The dog will then go into the water or wherever the bird landed and will retrieve it.

If a bird is crippled, but not dead, the dog will quickly retrieve it and bring it back for you to dispatch it humanely. A goose/duck shooting gundog is conditioned and trained to pick up these types of wildfowl and they are comfortable in their role on the shoot.

The Weimaraner Hunting Dog or Gray ghost is a phrase that is often associated with this breed and it is for good reason, the first thing that most people notice on the Weimaraner hunting dog is the short coat that is usually a silver gray in coloring, although you can also find them in varying shades of gray from mouse gray to blue gray. In addition to their striking coat, which covers an athletic body that is balanced and graceful, the Weimaraner also has unusual eyes that are either amber or light gray to blue gray in color.

But enough about appearance since we already know that the Weimaraner is an unusual breed, that is quiet beautiful, but that is only splitting hairs. Despite their beauty, the Weimaraner is a hard working breed that does exceptionally well in a variety of terrains and hunting a variety of field game. In fact, the Weimaraner is a true “fur and feathers” breed and you can use them to hunt anything from upland fowl to deer.

When the Weimaraner is not at work, you can find yourself in the company of an affectionate dog that loves the attention of their family. They are usually very energetic and this combined with their intelligence makes them a wonderful competitor in a number of dog sports.

They can be a bit difficult to train and are not usually recommended for first time or timid owners. However, if you can get over the training difficulties, you can be left with a dog that is truly spectacular.

Pro’s and con’s of owning a Weimaraner

Like all dog breeds, the Weimaraner has a number of pros and cons and at times, the latter may seem more apparent, however, the best way to approach life with a Weimaraner is simply to accept that this is a special breed. They almost know their own worth and anyone who has seen them in action will realize how truly spectacular this breed is. Once you have worked with a Weimaraner, there is very little chance that you will want another breed.

The Pro’s

The Weimaraner is an interesting breed that has a lot of intelligence and independence, which makes it an ideal field dog. In addition, this is a true “fur and feathers” breed that is happy pursuing any type of quarry.

• Despite the fact that the Weimaraner is used for hunting, this is a breed that is all pet as well. They thrive when they can work in both a hunting and pet capacity and do much better living in the home with their owners.

• They are usually very affectionate and can make excellent family pets, although they are not suitable for young children since they can be overly rambunctious.

• They are an athletic breed that will work hard in the field.

• Weimaraners are low shedding and very easy to groom.

• They are intelligent and able to take commands very well in the field.

• They are generally suspicious of new people but this makes them an excellent watch dog.

• Weimaraners are very beautiful and have an unusual appearance to them.

The Con’s

One thing that should be pointed out about the Weimaraner is that this is not a dog for everyone. They have some traits that make them a difficult breed for an inexperienced owner and it is important to really know yourself before you take on this breed.

• They have a large number of health problems so it is important to find a reputable breeder.

• They suffer from separation anxiety and can be quite destructive when they do.

• They are slower to housebreak than other breeds.

• They can be very energetic and are not the best for apartments, although they can live in them if they are properly exercised.

• Weimaraners are very sensitive dogs and really need ample socialization and proper training to make sure they don’t become aggressive or skittish.

• They are usually a very dominant breed and need firm, but positive training.

• Weimaraners can be difficult to train since they have a very strong will and like to do things their own way.

• Since they are a hunting breed, they do have a fair amount of energy and need to be exercised about 60 minutes per day.

• They are not recommended for homes with smaller pets since they have a strong prey drive.

Health Issues:

The Weimaraner has a number of hereditary diseases that can affect them and it is very important to be aware of them before you purchase a puppy.

In addition to the health problems, some Weimaraner puppies have been known to experience an autoimmune reaction to vaccines. Although it is impossible to determine which puppy will have this reaction, the risk for it is enough for owners to take special care with vaccinations. The Weimaraner Association of Canada recommends that the Distemper and Parvo vaccines be administered at different times, usually with an interval of two weeks between each vaccine. This has been proven to reduce the risk to the puppies significantly.

It is very important to research your breeders and to make sure that they are only using dogs that have been properly screened for health problems. Some issues that are seen in the Weimaraner are:

• Hip Dysplasia
• Elbow Dysplasia
• Tricuspid Valve Dysplasia
• Congenital cysts
• Retinal Atrophy
• Factor XI Deficiency
• Hypomyelinogenesis
• Mastocytoma
• Entropion
• Pituitary Dwarfism
• Gastric Torsion or Bloat
• Distichiasis
• Nictitating Membrane Eversion
• Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy
• Syringomyelia
• Cryptorchidism
• Hypothyroidism
• Persistent Right Aortic Arch
• Thymic Atrophy
• Umbilical Hernia

Height & Weight:

The Weimaraner is a dog that is refined in appearance and is a medium sized dog that has an athletic build. The breed is known for their grace and speed and their build should reflect the balance and endurance that is found in a dog that is healthy and hard working. They should have a long muzzle with an aristocratic look to it and their body should have a slight slope to it from the withers to the tail stump.

The size of a Weimaraner is:

Males: 24 to 27 inches (61 to 69 cm) tall and 55 to 70 pounds (25 to 32 kg).
Females: 22 to 25 inches (56 to 63 cm) tall and 50 to 65 pounds (23 to 29 kg).

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog. In the Weimaraner the withers are slightly higher than the back of the dog.

Grooming:

The Weimaraner is a low shedding breed of dog that is actually very easy to groom and requires only the bare minimum when it comes to grooming. Generally, the short coat should be brushed on a weekly basis just to keep it looking sleek and to get rid of any hair that is being shed.

When it comes to bathing a Weimaraner, the breed requires only one or two baths per year and it should only be done when it is absolutely necessary. At any other time, a rub down with a damp towel should keep them clean and their coat in excellent condition.

Other grooming considerations are simply keeping nails trimmed and also trimming any hair that may be found between the toes. Also keep the ears clean and free of any debris or water. Remember, dog breeds that have pendulous ears are more likely to have an ear infection.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 12 years

History:

The Weimaraner is a fairly young breed of gundog when you actually look at the history of other gundog breeds. They can trace their history back to the 19th century where they were originally known as the Weimar Pointers.

In fact, the Weimaraner can trace their history back to Weimar, which is in Germany, and the nobles who resided there. Being active sportsmen, the Nobles of Weimar wanted to create a dog that could be used to hunt a variety of game so they began breeding a dog that would do this.

Although we are unsure what breeds went into the creation of this breed, we do know that the Weimaraner was created and was originally used to hunt bear and other large game such as deer. Eventually, the Weimaraner was used for birds as well and became known as a “Fur and Feathers” breed that could hunt a number of prey with their handlers.

While they were exceptional dogs, the breed was kept under close control and it was difficult for anyone not associated with the German Weimaraner Club to own or breed one of these silver dogs. In 1928, efforts were made for the Weimaraner to be exported to America but Howard Knight, a New England Sportsman, met a fair amount of opposition by the German Weimaraner Club.

In the end, Howard Knight was able to import the first Weimaraner but, unfortunately, he was only able to import two sterilized dogs. Still, he continued to press the German Weimaraner Club and ten years later, he was rewarded with the purchase of four dogs, three bitches and a male.

From there, Howard Knight created his own pedigree of Weimaraner and went on to form the Weimaraner Club of America in 1942. Despite the struggle to get the Weimaraner into America, they didn’t really catch on. This was a breed that was considered flashy and were often considered as more of a status symbol than a working breed, despite their natural instincts and ability with hunting. Because of this, the breed declined for years in the United States but thankfully it did not disappear since many dedicated breeders kept them going and today they are seeing an increased popularity once again.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Above is the first part of Sam in Pre-training, to get the other 3 free videos click on Gundogs

Right Back To How To Use Your Voice to Train Gundogs
If you look at gundog training in its basic form, then voice seems very important and it also seems like the only way to show a dog what you want it to do. Thankfully, however, that is not usually the case and as most sportsmen and women will know, dogs in the field cannot always hear their handlers, especially if they are working out in front of their handler.

Voice training goes so much farther than simply giving a command and how you use your voice can help you not only train your dog but also build a sustainable bond with him, which will only benefit you when you are out in the field.

When we look at voice training, we are actually looking at the tone of voice. This is something that you should be aware of and you should think in terms of several tones.

• Conversation Tone: I have found that everyone talks to their dogs and will usually use the same tone that they use with adults in a give and take conversation. This is a relaxed tone, the tone that tells the dog that they can relax and don’t have to be on their toes and ready to obey a command. It is important that you train yourself to never use this tone when training or giving a command because it has more of a “maybe” to it and the dog may decide that maybe is good enough and he doesn’t really need to do something.

• Harsh Tone: This is a hard tone for a lot of people to pull off but a harsh tone is not a yelling tone. Actually, yelling does not accomplish anything except negatives. A harsh tone has more growl to it than pitch and it is a tone that you will use to correct the dog’s behaviors. If the puppy is chewing something, a firm growl “No,” with a gentle correction will teach the dog that they are doing something wrong. This is a step in training that can be done very early with a dog and will continue through your dog’s life.

• Command Tone: If you are going to use this tone than you really need to train yourself to follow through on it. This is the strong tone that tells the dog there will be no arguments about things. Commands should be given once and should be delivered in a clear voice that is commanding.

• Praise Tone: When your dog is doing something good, a chipper voice that is filled with pleasure is the perfect way to let your dog know that they are doing something good. It is important to mention that praise should never be bouncy and it shouldn’t make the dog break from a command. If a dog is sitting and holding and you praise him for holding, “Good dog!” it shouldn’t be done in a manner that makes him jump up and break the hold. Instead, he should remain in position and only a small tail wag is evidence that the dog has heard the praise.

• Play Tone: The last tone is the tone that you can lavish praise or play with your dog with and should never be done during a training session. It can be done once training is done and it gives your dog permission to have a little fun after a hard training session.

As you can see, each tone has its set time to use and it can go a long way to training your dog. Not only does it make it clear to your dog what he needs to know but it also alerts your dog to when he needs to focus and when he doesn’t.

If you want to know more on training your Gundogs using your voice or have a new dog to train you may be interested in our weekly video training course which will be starting within the next 3-4 weeks, click here gundog training to register your interest and get 4 pretraining videos for free,

If you have already registered, sorry for the delay we are nearly there

You may go and buy a Retriever if you watch video above

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a medium sized breed of dog with an interesting look that consists of a broad head and tan to dark brown or red coat that has a slight wave to it. They are beautiful dogs that really exhibit the athletic build that one looks for in a working breed.

In addition to this build, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an intelligent breed that thrives when it is out working. They are very affectionate to those they know but do not have the “love everyone” that so many other breeds has. Instead, they tend to be a bit more reserved and they also have a very strong will.

It is actually this strong will that really sets the Chesapeake Bay Retriever aside from other retrievers. They can be slow to learn, not because they are not intelligent, but because they are not a breed that will jump for anything. For this reason, they are not recommended for new or timid owners and they really need an owner that can be firm and patient at the same time.

Even still, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a breed that was made for retrieving on water and they have proven time and time again that they are perfect for retrieving waterfowl on any type of terrain.

Pro’s and con’s of owning an Irish Water Spaniel

If you are looking at the Chesapeake Bay Retriever because it gives you a Labrador Retriever with an unusual coat, then you should look for another breed because you would be farthest from the truth as you can be. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an energetic breed but they tend to be more reserved and have a very strong will. They are not eager to please but they have a confidence that endears them to many owners and trainers alike. While they have many positive qualities, they also have a few that make them a poor match with many owners. It is very important to really know this breed before you purchase one.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Chesapeake Bay Retriever breed and while they are considered more uncommon today, there was a time when this breed was a preferred pet for many sportsmen and hunters. Generally, this is an active breed that works hard in the field and truly shines in water.

• They are very friendly and loving and make excellent family dogs and are usually very good with children.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers do very well in outdoor kennels and actually prefer to sleep outside.
• They have a steady temperament, although they are exuberant when young.
• While they are friendly, they are more reserved than many other retriever breeds.
• They can make excellent watchdogs since they tend to be suspicious of new people.
• They are easy to groom.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are very intelligent and will take to training quickly; however, they may not always listen since they are strong willed.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Chesapeake Bay Retriever. The breed has an active and bouncy personality that does not work for everyone.

• They are an active breed that requires at least 30 minutes of exercise per day, although, it is much better if they have closer to 60 minutes.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are average shedders.
• Although they are a retriever, they do not have the eager to please mentality of many retrievers. Instead, they can be very strong willed and need a confident owner and trainer.
• They have been known to have some territorial aggression towards other animals so it is very important to properly socialize this breed.
• They are very jumpy and tend to mature slower than other breeds.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers can be very mouthy and may chew objects or nip at hands.
• They can suffer from separation anxiety and will become destructive if they are bored.

Health Issues:

While the Chesapeake Bay Retriever has a number of hereditary diseases that can affect them, they do not have as many as some breeds and are considered to be fairly hardy as a sporting breed.

However, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever has had some instances of Exercise Induced Collapse where a dog’s muscles will refuse to work, thus causing a collapse in the dog. Studies are still being done on the issue and even a dog that has not been exercising can suffer from a collapse. It is important to be aware of this when you purchase a dog. It is also important to research your breeders and to make sure that they are only using dogs that have been properly screened for health problems. Some issues that are seen in the Chesapeake Bay Retriever are:

• Hip Dysplasia
• Elbow Dysplasia
• Degenerative Myelopathy
• Hypothyroidism
• Epilepsy
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy
• Cataracts
• Gastric Torsion or Bloat

Height & Weight:

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a strong and athletic breed of dog that should have smooth lines with a rump that is the same height or slightly higher than the shoulders. This is a breed that is used to the extremes of cold temperatures and this trait can be seen in the strength and substance of the dog. It should never be too large but it should have a medium build that gives the appearance of endurance.

The size of a Chesapeake Bay Retriever is:

Males: 23 to 26 inches (58 to 66 cm) tall and 65 to 80 pounds (29 to 36 kg).
Females: 21 to 24 inches (53 to 61 cm) tall and 55 to 70 pounds (25 to 22 kg).

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog. In the Weimaraner the withers are slightly higher than the back of the dog.

Grooming:

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is actually a very easy dog to groom and they don’t need a lot of maintenance to keep them clean and tidy. While they are easy to groom, they are also average shedders so there will be periods when you have a lot of hair to remove.

When it comes to grooming, it is recommended that you brush them out once a week to remove any dead hairs or debris. Also, it is important to brush these dogs out after they have been in the field to make sure that no dirt or debris will cause mats in their fur.

With bathing, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever only needs to be bathed once or twice per year. Since this is a working breed that was designed to work in water, they have a weatherproofing oil in the hair and washing the dog will only strip this oil from their hair.

Nails should be kept trimmed and if there are any hairs between the toes, it should be trimmed as well. Also keep the dog’s ears clean and dry to avoid any ear infections.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 12 years

History:

If you are looking for a breed that has an interesting history, then you should look no farther than the Chesapeake Bay Retriever. This breed was originated in the early 1800’s and they can actually trace their heritage back to a shipwreck in 1807.

As the history, which is well documented states, a ship that was bound for England from Newfoundland Canada was shipwrecked just off the coast of Maryland. Thankfully the cargo and crew were rescued and taken into the United States.

While this may seem like a strange place to start the history, what is of more important note to dog lovers is that on board the wrecked ship were two Newfoundland puppies, a male and female, that were bound for England.

The two dogs didn’t make it to England and were instead given to two men who were shown gratitude by the shipwrecked sailors for both of their hospitality. The two men, John Mercer and Dr. James Stuart, trained the dogs for retrieving waterfowl and were delighted to have two dogs that were exceptional at it.

In fact, the two dogs were so renowned for their retrieving abilities that any offspring the two produced were sought after by local sportsmen. While the foundation dogs were the two Newfoundland puppies off the shipwreck, whose names were Sailor, the reddish brown male, and Canton, the black female, many other dogs went into creating the Chesapeake Bay Retriever as we know it today.

Generally, many of the puppies that were purchased from Sailor and Canton were bred to many other dogs, including a non-descript retriever that was commonly used in the area. In addition, it is believed that the Flat Coated Retriever, Otter Hound and Curly-Coated Retriever were introduced into the pedigree and each one offered a trait to the Chesapeake Bay Retriever.

Within only a few generations, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever was created and by the mid-1800’s, many breeds were already breeding to form. Because of this, many sportsmen strived to keep the breed from being destroyed and in the late 1800’s, the Carroll Island Gun Club created a pedigree for the Chesapeake Bay Dog.

During the last twenty years of the 1800’s, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever had several different names but in 1890, the name was finally awarded to the Chesapeake Bay Retriever and the breed club was finally formed in the 1890’s.

While the breed became popular in the early and mid 1900’s, with the decline of bird populations and sportsmen, the breed began to see a bit of a decline in the number of Chesapeake Bay Retrievers that were being produced. Thankfully, they are once again on the rise in numbers but they still remain a fairly unfamiliar breed.

Still, the breed has a large following and recently there has been a concern of the breed splitting into two separate types; show and field lines. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever became the state dog of Maryland in 1964.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, NKC, NZKC, ANKC, APRI, ACR

If you are interested in rehoming a Chesapeake Bay Retriever

My Kids would love a puppy but i always end up with a adult gundog like Charlie or my new gundog Tia (Above)

Everyone loves a puppy, even people who don’t really like dogs so it is no wonder that many people are interested in purchasing a puppy to start as a gundog than they are in purchasing an adult. While there are many advantages to purchasing an adult gundog as to purchasing a puppy, there are also several disadvantages.

Generally, many people feel that a good gundog will start training young and should be purchased as a puppy but I have seen many excellent gundogs come out of dogs purchased as adults. These are dogs, by the way, that have had no formal training in field work but they were still able to outshine the puppies that were bred and raised for field work only.

That being said, I want to look at the advantages and disadvantages of starting with an adult gundog. Like everything else to do with your dog, you will need to make the decision between whether you want to start with an adult dog or whether you want to start with a puppy. Believe it or not, this decision will greatly affect how you will approach gundog training and it may also affect the time it takes to get out for hunting, although this is not always the case.

Since I love to start on a positive note, I am going to start with the advantages of starting an adult gundog.

Advantages of Starting with an Adult Gundog:

• He may be trained completely. Depending on the dog you get, you may have a fully trained gundog on your hands which means that after a few months, until you have set up a bond with him, that you can start working him. Of course, the gundog might not be properly trained and then you will have to start at square one.
• You don’t have to housetrain. Usually this is a big bonus for starting with an adult dog. Most of them are house trained so you don’t have to deal with all the accidents in the house. If you have them outside, then you aren’t going to worry about this as much but it is still something to consider.
• Some of the potential health risks may be avoided. Since there are a number of health issues that occur before the dog reaches the age of two, purchasing an adult dog instead of a puppy may help you avoid some of the health risks. Of course, some do not appear until later in life so don’t expect to be free of all the risks.
• They can be fielded faster. Training a puppy can take a lot of time and is a lot of responsibility. Starting with a trained adult dog means that you can get out in the field much sooner than you could if you have start with a puppy.
• Basic training may be finished. If you are purchasing a dog that has not been trained for gundog training, you will probably be training a dog that has basic training. Since the building blocks are in place, you don’t really need to start with basic training and you can move on to the field training much faster.
• You avoid the puppy stage. While puppies can be very cute, they are also a lot of work and it just isn’t the housetraining that can be difficult. They are active, rambunctious and will constantly get into stuff. By purchasing an adult dog, you get to avoid that age and simply enjoy a steadier time with your dog, at least most of the time.

Disadvantages of Starting with an Adult Gundog:

• You may not bond with the dog. This can be one of the biggest disadvantages of starting with an adult dog since a lot of bonding takes place during the puppy stage. While you can still create a bond with an older dog, it may not be as strong as one that you have nurtured throughout your dog’s life.
• The dog may be improperly trained. Training is not always done correctly and when you purchase an older dog, you run the risk of all forms of training not being properly established. This is across the board with basic training, housetraining, and finally, field training.
• You might not know the pedigree. If you are purchasing a finished gundog, then chances are this won’t be a problem but if you are adopting a gundog breed from a shelter, there is no way to know the pedigree or if it came from field lines. This might not matter in the training, but then again, it may.
• You miss the puppy stage. Okay, I know I just cited this as an advantage but in some ways it is actually a disadvantage. There are many positives to starting with a puppy and while you avoid a lot of the cons if you start with an adult, you do miss all the positives.
• There may be several issues. Aggression, socialization problems, mouthing problems, and a variety of other issues can arise if you start with an adult gundog. It is not always easy to see these problems when you first purchase a gundog but they may be there and they may destroy any effort you make to work your adult gundog.
• You don’t know the dog’s history. The last disadvantage that I am going to mention is not knowing the dog’s history. Were there problems with the development? Did he receive all the proper vaccinations and medical treatments? Did he have any growing problems? Was he abused or neglected? Some things may be clear while others may not be evident until a major problem arises.

In the end, it is up to the individual to decide whether they want to purchase a puppy or start with an adult gundog. Both have their disadvantages and advantages but with a little work, you can have an excellent gundog no matter what age you purchase him at.

This short video is better than most of the photos I found.

And if you want to see the cutest video i have ever seen watch the one below

If being the tallest of spaniels isn’t enough to get this breed noticed, then their rich liver colored curls and rat-like tail, which is free of the curls, is sure to draw teh eye. Add to that a balanced appearance that truly shows off the breeds athleticism and you are left with an exceptional dog.

The Irish Water Spaniel, or Rat Tailed Spaniel as it is sometimes referred as, is an exceptional spaniel that is often used for retrieving waterfowl and is a natural in retrieving on water. In addition, this is a breed that is known to have a zest for life. They can be wonderful clowns and they often pair that sense of humor with an intelligent that can be respected by both pet owners and hunters alike.

The main problem with this breed is that they can be fairly strong willed and while they will easily pick up training, they don’t always feel the need to listen. This makes the breed only suitable for experienced and firm owners.

Still, even with that stubborn streak, the Irish Water Spaniel makes a wonderful site in the field and they often bond very well with their families, which makes them an equally wonderful site at home.

Pro’s and con’s of owning an Irish Water Spaniel

As with all breeds, there are a number of pros and cons to be considered when you are looking at purchasing an Irish Water Spaniel. These are dogs that have a lot of good qualities that endear them to young and old alike, but they also have some traits that can be a challenge to even the most experienced dog owner. In addition, the Irish Water Spaniel does have a number of health problems that can arise so it is important to really research the breeder as well as the breed before you purchase.

The Pro’s

The Irish Water Spaniel is a very active hunting dog that can make life wonderful for any avid hunter or sportsman. They excel at hunting waterfowl and do extremely well with retrieving in water.

• They are hard workers and enjoy being in the field.
• They are very protective of their family and home and make excellent watchdogs, although they are not the best when it comes to guarding.
• Irish Water Spaniels are very intelligent and will learn a task very quickly.
• They are low shedders and are considered to be hypoallergetic.
• With proper exercise, they can live in any type of dwelling but they do need to have a fenced yard for some outdoor stimulation.
• They do very well with children and make excellent family dogs.

The Con’s

As with all breeds, there are a number of cons that should be considered when you are deciding on purchasing an Irish Water Spaniel. These are:

• Although they were once the third most popular gundog for sportsmen, today, the Irish Water Spaniel is a bit more difficult to find so you may have a long wait when you are purchasing a puppy.
• They require regular grooming that can be quite intensive.
• They can be aggressive to other animals but with proper socialization, this can be solved.
• They are very intelligent and can suffer from boredom if they are not properly stimulated.
• They are a working breed so they do require a large amount of exercise every day; usually between 30 to 60 minutes per day.
• Without proper socialization, Irish Water Spaniels can be fearful of strangers.
• Irish Water Spaniels can be very strong willed and does require a firm trainer.

Health Issues:

The Irish Water Spaniel has a number of hereditary diseases that can affect them and it is very important to be aware of them before you purchase a puppy.

In addition, some Irish Water Spaniels have been known to have adverse reactions to a number of drugs and vaccinations. It is very important that you alert your veterinarian to these risks and to talk to your breeder about vaccinating before you do so. According to the Irish Water Spaniel Club of America, the drugs, in addition to vaccines that contain the leptospirosis component, that should be avoided are:

• Delyoprim
• Norodine
• Borgal Sulphadioaxine Trimethroprim
• Zaquilan Sulphadimethoxine Baquiloprim
• Co-trimoxazole Sulphamethoxazole Trimethroprim Tribressen (or Di Trim)
• Dulphatrim Sulphadiazine Trimethroprim
• Delyoprim

Aside from these problems, the Irish Water Spaniel has a number of health issues that should be considered before purchasing a puppy. Therefore, it is very important to research your breeders and to make sure that they are only using dogs that have been properly screened for health problems.

• Hip dysplasia
• Paronychia
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy
• Bloody tail tip
• Hypothyroidism
• Epilepsy
• Von Willebrand’s Disease
• Alopecia
• Ear Infections
• Megaesophagus
• Sebaceous Adenitis
• Entropion

Height & Weight:

The Irish Water Spaniel is a medium sized dog that exhibits the appearance of a strong and intelligent gundog. This is a dog that is well balanced and has a build that really speaks of endurance. The Irish Water Spaniel should be rectangular in length and should have a chest that is pear shaped instead of wide. It should also have no appearance of a tucked up stomach.

The size of an Irish Water Spaniel is:

Males: 22 to 24 inches (56 to 61 cm) tall and 55 to 65 pounds (25 to 29 kg).
Females: 21 to 23 inches (53 to 58 cm) tall and 45 to 58 pounds (20 to 26 kg).

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog. In the Weimaraner the withers are slightly higher than the back of the dog.

Grooming:

Although the Irish Water Spaniel is a low shedder, it is a breed that needs ample care when it comes to their coat. Generally, the Irish Water Spaniel should be groomed on a weekly or twice weekly basis. This is to keep their coat free of mats and to remove any dead hair or debris that may have been caught in their dense curls.

In addition to brushing the dog, hair should be trimmed every few weeks to keep it uniformed and tidy. Although how it is trimmed is less important when you are not showing your dog, it is still important to do it to keep the dog cool and to keep the coat from collecting a lot of debris.

Hair between the toes and around the ears should be kept tidy to prevent any infections or sores from forming. In addition, nails should be trimmed regularily to prevent splitting.

Ears should be cleaned on a regular basis and should be wiped dry after the Irish Water Spaniel has been swimming or bathed.

When it comes to bathing, the dog should be bathed once every month or two since overwashing can strip the natural oils from the dog’s fur and ruin some of its natural water resistance.

Lastly, to make the curls bounce back to their natural beauty after a brushing, allow the dog the chance for a swim or wet the curls with a quick hose down.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 12 years

History:

The Irish Water Spaniel originated in Ireland and can trace its heritage back to before the early 1600’s. In fact, the breed was described in the book, “Historie of the four-tooted Beastes,” which was published in 1607.

Although we are unsure of the breeds that went into the Irish Water Spaniel, we do know that at one time, prior to the 1850’s, the breed was actually seen as two specific breeds of dog. These were the South Country Water Spaniel, which was a liver colored dog that has long ears and a coat that had short curls, and the North Country Water Spaniel, which was a liver and white colored dog with short ears and a curly coat. Both breeds were considered to share the same lineage, which many have felt was shared by the Poodle.

While the two breeds are both said to have contributed to the Irish Water Spaniel as it is today, it is believed that the South Country Water Spaniel had more influence in shaping the breed. Despite this, we do know that Justin McCarthy, a sportsman from Dublin, is credited with creating the breed as we know it today.

Through careful breeding, the Irish Water Spaniel was born and many sportsmen from both Ireland and England found it a superb retrieving dog, especially when it came to retrieving in water.

The first Irish Water Spaniel was imported to North America in the 1870’s and it has continued to thrive in the United States.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Ron Likes All His Dogs In Kennel's I Kind Of Disagree

Before I begin this blog post today, I just want to start off by saying that there really is no right way or wrong way to house your gun dog. Every breed, dog and owner will have different success and opinions on where a gun dog should be kept but when it comes down to the actual statistics of success, it is usually six to one and half dozen to the other.

Basically, that being said there are a number of breeds that do not thrive in a kennelling situation and you will find that I mention this in all the breed profiles that you will find throughout this site. In addition, every trainer will feel differently about housing issues but regardless of popular opinion, there are many pros and cons to keeping your gundog outside and I would like to address those today.

The Pros of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Like everything, there are always a number of pros that will come into play when you make your decision on housing your hunting dog and it is very important to look at them. Many trainers feel that the pros far outweigh the cons and often feel that housing a gundog inside will not only affect their training but will also destroy any potential to do so. That belief, in itself, is a good reason why you should kennel outside but it isn’t the only reason.

The gundog’s training is more controlled: This is one of the major pros of keeping your gundog in a kennel. When a gundog lives inside there are many bad habits that can occur. First, you are constantly training your dog and sometimes those lessons are very negative.

Since the gundog is given free reign of a house, he is less likely to listen when told to do something such as sit in place. Also, he is more likely to get into things that capitalize on his natural instincts. If he gets into something that would bring a correction, it can inadvertently teach him to ignore his natural hunting instincts.

A dog that is kept in a kennel is not constantly learning or capitalizing on negative behaviors and you can really say when and what he is learning or being trained to do.

The gundog has his own space: Something that is another pro is that the gundog has his own space outside. This is his room where he goes when training is over and he can take a break. It also provides a strong split from work and rest and your dog will know that he is going to be working the minute you open up the kennel door.

The gundog is eager to train: One behavior that most trainers have seen with their hunting dogs is the fact that they are always very eager to train. When their owners come up to the kennel, they know that now is the time to get out and get active. They are very excited to get to work and receive praise for all of their hard work.

In addition, training is a great way to break up some of the boredom the dog will feel in the kennel. This means that training, and hunting, is fun for the dog and he will usually be much easier to handle when you take him out since he is striving for his rewards and for a nice outlet for his energy.

The Cons of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Since I have mentioned the pros of keeping your gundog outside, it is only appropriate that I go over a few of the cons that can occur when you house your gundog outside.

The gundog is not well socialized: Although this is not the case with all kennel raised gundogs, it can be very easily since socializing is often overlooked by all dog owners, regardless of how their dog is used.

A gundog that is kept outside may not have much opportunity to learn about interacting with other people and animals and may become aggressive or timid when they are around anyone other than their owner and trainer.

The gundog may not bond: Again, another thing that may or may not happen but since a gundog is not interacting on a regular basis with their owners; they may not have as strong of a connection to them. If an owner takes the time to interact with his dog several times per day, then this bond will be built but if interaction is minimal, then the bond may not develop and you won’t have a dog that performs to his best potential.

The gundog may have behavioral problems: Remember, a kennel is a dog’s room and if you keep your gundog outside, he may become used to being king of that kennel. This can lead to dominance issues during training and it can also lead to territorial aggression.

In addition, gundogs that are kept outside, especially if it is a breed that is not suited for it, may begin to exhibit separation anxiety and will become destructive, may dig and will often bark, which can be a nuisance to both you and your neighbors. Lastly, the gundog may not housetrain completely and this can be a problem if you need to have him inside for any reason.

Even with the pros and cons, housing your dog is up to the individual owner and trainer and it is possible to utilize both your house and an outdoor kennel so that your gundog is given the best of both worlds with all the advantages.

To find out more on Rond Training methods Visit Amazon and get yourself a copy of the DVD

For The UK Click UK Gundog DVD

For The US Click US GunDog DVD