This is a exellent video of the gorden setter gundog

If you were to ask someone to sum up the Gordon Setter in a few words, they would probably say the common term, “Brains, beauty and bird sense,” and they will have completely described this black and tan setter.  To start off, the Gordon Setter is a beautiful breed of dog with substantial muscle and athleticism captured beneath a long coat that is feathered and shiny. It is a dog with a noble carriage and whether it is at work in the field or lying at home, that dignity shines through.
In addition to their beauty, the Gordon Setter is known as a very intelligent dog.  They thrive when their brains are working and they have the independent nature to put their intelligence to work in the field while hunting.
However, despite their intelligence and their gentle nature, this is not a breed for the new or timid dog owner.  Gordon Setters, if given the chance, have no problem taking control of the home.  They can be very wilful and while training can be easy, if the dog is being stubborn, it can become very frustrating.
Generally, the Gordon Setter needs someone that can provide firm and gentle leadership and they will completely shine.  They make excellent family dogs and will give their undying loyalty to everyone in it.  That, combined with their excellent bird sense, is a trait that has endeared them to hunters for centuries.
Pro’s and con’s of owning an Irish Water Spaniel

The Gordon Setter with its beautiful, long and feathered black and tan coat has many positives and several negatives and one thing is clear about this breed is that it is not for everyone.  This is a sensitive breed and that sensitivity is both good and bad.  On one hand they are very affectionate and gentle but on the other, they can be cowed very easily and improper treatment and training can lead to severe damage.  In addition, this is a strong breed that will have no problem being wilful and will rarely feel remorse for it.

The Pro’s

The Gordon Setter is a wonderful breed that proves time and time again that good looks does not mean that you can’t be an exceptional gundog in the field.  Their independence, good natured disposition and beauty have made them a favorite for many sportsmen and breeders.

•    With proper socialization, Gordon Setters can do very well with other pets and dogs in the house.
•    They are a very independent breed but they also enjoy being with their family and are affectionate to any they consider to be family.
•    They are a little suspicious of strangers but this makes them an excellent guard dog since they will bark at anything that seems out of the ordinary.
•    Although the Gordon Setter can be a jumpy and rambunctious puppy, they usually become much calmer as adults and become a very gentle breed.
•    Gordon Setters make excellent family dogs but they can have the tendency to be over protective of children in their home.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Gordon Setter  This breed can be very gentle as they get older but they can also be very stubborn and may not be the best for an inexperienced dog owner.

•    They are high shedders and do require daily grooming, especially if the coat is kept in its natural show quality
•    The Gordon Setter is an active breed and they do require about 60 minutes of exercise each day.
•    They can become bored very easily and will become destructive if they do.
•    Gordon Setters are very affectionate dogs and they prefer to live in the home with their family.  Generally, they are not suited for kennels and are much happier in the home.
•    They do require ample socialization to avoid any animal aggression problems.  If they are socialized properly, then they should do fine in a house with other pets.
•    Gordon Setters are known to suffer from separation anxiety, which, in turn, can lead to problems such as destructive behavior and barking.
•    They are considered to be stubborn dogs and can quickly take the alpha role in the house if their owner does not take control.
•    Gordon Setters are not suited for apartment living and do much better in a home with a fenced yard.

Health Issues:

The Gordon Setter has a number of health problems that are seen but they are still considered to be a hardy breed of dog.  Even still, it is important to research your breeders and to make sure that they are only using dogs that have been properly screened for health problems.  Some issues that are seen in the Gordon Setter are:

•    Hip Dysplasia
•    Hypothyroidism
•    JRD Congenital Renal Disease
•    DUNGd
•    Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)
•    Panosteitis
•    Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)
•    Sebaceous Cysts
•    Gastric Torsion (Bloat)

Height & Weight:

The Gordon Setter is a large sized breed of gundog that is well known for its strength, well-balanced appearance and symmetry.  It is usually a dog that has a short back and a well sprung set of ribs.  It should be well-muscled and give the appearance of stamina.

The size of a Gordon Setter is:

Males: 24 to 27 inches (61 to 69 cm) tall and 55 to 80 pounds (25 to 36 kg).
Females: 23 to 26 inches (58 to 66 cm) tall and 45 to 70 pounds (21 to 32 kg).

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

The long coat of the Gordon Setter is one that needs to be taken care of if you intend to keep it in the same coat that it would sport in the conformation ring.  This means that you will need to brush them on a daily basis to remove any dead hair and debris and to keep their coats soft and shiny.

Hair should be thinned and trimmed to keep the overall shape of the dog while making it tidy and extra care should be placed on the hair between the toes and pads of the feet.

Nails should be trimmed and the ears should be kept clean and dry, especially after they have done any field work.  Baths should be done once or twice a month and it is always recommended that a spray conditioner be used on their coats, especially if they are being shown.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 12 years

History:

When it comes to the origin of the Gordon Setter, there are a few theories in regards to the dogs that the Gordon Setter was established from. In one theory, it is believed that the Gordon Setter was developed from Scottish Collies and setters, which were bred by the Duke of Gordon in the early 1800’s.  The second theory is that the Gordon Setters were actually developed from the “Setting Spaniels” that were established in the same area in the early 1600’s.

Regardless of the breed that the Gordon Setter was established from, there is very little doubt that the Duke of Gordon had a huge influence on what the breed is today and can be credited with the breed’s origins.

In fact, during the early 19th century, Alexander the 4th Duke of Gordon became very partial to the black and tan coloring in the setters that he produced in his kennel at Gordon Castle, that he encouraged only that combination in his setters.

The Gordon Setter flourished at Gordon Castle but in 1836, the death of the 5th Duke of Gordon led to the kennel and all the dogs in the kennel being sold at a dispersal sale.  The title of Duke of Gordon became extinct and the estate became the property of the Duke of Richmond.

Thankfully, however, the 6th Duke of Richmond and Gordon re-established the kennel and continued to produce the dogs until 1907.

The first Gordon Setter arrived into the United States in 1842 and was officially recognized by the AKC in 1892.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

For More on Gorden Setters

One of my personal favorates is a welsh springer spaniel, the video above has some great pictures

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a medium sized gundog that is the perfect balance between the larger and heavier English Springer and the smaller and lighter Cocker Spaniel.  It has the same pendant ears, feather haired and deep hazel colored eyes and it also has a silky coat that is found in a patterned red and white.

Just like other spaniel breeds, the Welsh Springer Spaniel has an amazing temperament.  They are very affect5ionate and are usually very happy.  They are not as outgoing as some breeds but they are very loyal to their owners and family and love to be with them.

In fact, they are so affectionate with their family that they are commonly called a “Velcro dog”.  This trait makes than an excellent choice for a family dog and the fact that they have a strong hunting drive can make them the versatile hunting dog that you were looking for.

They can be a bit sensitive and while they are stubborn, any rough training can hurt their training and can lead them to be timid.  Socialization is a must for this breed to avoid fearfulness but with proper training and socialization, this can be a breed that truly shines in the field.

Pro’s and con’s of owning Welsh Springer Spaniel

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a very gentle and affectionate dog that makes them an excellent companion dog.  Paired with their drive to work, they can be a very versatile hunting dog that thrives in both the field and the home.  They do have some stubbornness and need a firm owner who can give clear rules so they may not be the best breed for a new or inexperienced owner.

The Pro’s

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is an excellent hunting dog that can be a joy both in the house and on land.   Pros of the Welsh Springer Spaniel are:

•    They are not as outgoing as some breeds but they are very affectionate with their family.
•    While they can be stubborn, they also have a very sensitive disposition that makes them a treat to be around.
•    They thrive when they live in the house with their family.
•    The Welsh Springer Spaniel is very good with children.
•    They do well with other pets and dogs in the house.

The Con’s:

Although the Welsh Springer Spaniel has the good nature and affectionate disposition of many spaniel breeds, it is one of the more stubborn breeds and may not be suited for new or timid owners who do not have firm rules.  Other cons of the Welsh Springer Spaniel are:

•    The Welsh Springer Spaniel is considered to be a Velcro breed. This means that they prefer to be with their owners and can suffer from separation anxiety when left alone.
•    Since they can be stubborn, they can be one of the more difficult breeds to train.
•    They are very active and require at least 60 minutes of exercise every day.
•    Welsh Springer Spaniels do require a fair amount of grooming and should be brushed several times per week.
•    The Welsh Springer Spaniel is considered to be an average shedder although they do have periods during the year where they shed heavily.
•    Socialization is important for the Welsh Springer Spaniel because the breed can become fearful or timid if they are not socialized properly.
•    They can be very jumpy.
•    They are excitable and may have submissive urination problems.

Health Issues:

The Welsh Springer Spaniel has a number of hereditary diseases that can affect them and it is very important to be aware of them before you purchase a puppy.  It is very important to research your breeders and to make sure that they are only using dogs that have been properly screened for health problems.

•    Hip Dysplasia
•    Epilepsy
•    Progressive Retinal Atrophy
•    Cataracts
•    Hypothyroidism
•    Glaucoma
•    Ear Infections
•    Entropion

Height & Weight:

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is a medium sized dog that is compact and is the image of stamina.  He should have substance without being course and heavy and he should have the athleticism of a working dog.  The Welsh Springer Spaniel should be almost square in shape but he should be slightly longer than he is tall.

The size of an Welsh Springer Spaniel is:

Males: 18 to 19 inches (46 to 48 cm) tall and 40 to 45 pounds (18 to 20 kg).
Females: 17 to 18 inches (43 to 46 cm) tall and 35 to 40 pounds (16 to 18 kg).

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

The Welsh Springer Spaniel is an average shedder with periods of the year where they are heavy shedders.  That being said, they can be easy to maintain if you make sure you brush them several times per week.  In addition, you should brush them after they are done field work to remove any dirt, debris or burrs that may be caught in their fur.  If you don’t, the dirt can lead to mats in the coat.

With bathing, the Welsh Springer Spaniel only needs to be bathed when it is absolutely necessary, which is usually only once or twice during the year.  It is important to clean their ears on a weekly basis and to keep an eye out for any infection since this breed can suffer from chronic ear infections.

Lastly, the nails should be kept clipped and any hair between the toes of your dog’s feet should be trimmed to avoid debris getting caught between the toes.

Life Expectancy: 12 to 15 years

History:

Like many of the Spaniel breeds, the Welsh Springer Spaniel can date its history back to the hunting dogs that were used roughly 3000 years ago.  In fact, it is believed that the Welsh Springer Spaniel can trace its origins back to the Agassian Hunting Dog that was brought to Britain when the Romans occupied the country in 250BC.

From those dogs, the Welsh Springer Spaniel was developed and was known as the Land Spaniel during the renaissance. This Red and White spaniel looked very similar to the Welsh Springer Spaniel as we know the breed today, however, the breed changed slightly over the centuries.

Despite the breed’s popularity for many centuries, it began to lose its place to the English Springer in the 1800’s and almost became extinct because of this.  However, in the late 1800’s, the breed thrived again and quickly gained popularity in the united states.  By 1906, the breed was recognized by the AKC but by the end of both World Wars, there were no Welsh Springer Spaniels being registered by the AKC until importation of the breed began again in the 1950’s.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR, DRA

or More Info Go To Welsh Springer Spaniel

Charlie, my spaniel just loves going exploring, but does have the habit of chasing cars ?

You Need To Get Your Gundog use to Foreign Objects in the House, Garden & Beyond

One thing that many trainers will tell you, when it comes to any dog, is that socialization is important for your dog to be a productive member of society. If a dog is nervous or aggressive around children, other dogs or strange situations, then there could be a number of problems and it is not the best thing for anyone.

That is why they often stress puppy socialization classes and why socialization is a lifelong process that should never be relaxed with a dog.  While foreign objects are not quite the same thing as socialization, it does fall in a similar category.

As you know, the world is filled with so many different things and it can be unnerving for anyone when they first encounter them.  By training and socializing your dog to new and foreign objects, your gundog will become accustomed to new things.  This means that when your dog is in the field, they are less likely to break a command, act aggressively, become distracted or become alarmed when they encounter something new in the field.

This can be a life saver at times and it can also keep your dog focused on the task at hand.  Although a dog getting hurt is much worse, it can be disheartening to see your dog circling around a foreign object, something that they had never seen before, when they were in the field to retrieve a felled duck.

Socialization to foreign objects is something that should be started at an early age and it should begin at home. Bring in new items for the dog to be acclimatized to and make sure that you never make a big deal over something.  Instead, bring it in when the dog is not present and ignore it when the dog goes to check it out.  Recall the dog back to you when it has had a few minutes to explore this foreign object and distract him from becoming too focused.

Teach your dog that there is nothing interesting in the “new” objects and he receives more rewards for ignoring it than pursuing it.  After your dog is familiar with encountering new or foreign objects at home, you can branch out to your garden and again approach it in the same manner.  Lastly, you can branch out into the field and finally, your dog will barely notice a foreign object when he is in the field and working.

To find out more on training your gundog

If your Dog will Walk To Heel Even a £ Year Old Can Walk Them

Teaching a gundog to heel can be a frustrating task for many dog trainers. Although it can seem very easy, it can also be one of the hardest commands that your dog masters and it is simply because you are the one in control and not the dog.

However, it doesn’t have to be that difficult but it does take some patience and time before your dog is able to heel both on and off the lead.  Before you begin, you will need a 4 foot leash and bait.

Begin your lesson by placing your dog into a sit beside your leg.  He should be sitting on the left side and should be even with your hip.  Hold the lead in your right hand and have a treat in your left to use as baiting.  It is important that the bait is even with your body so your dog has to keep his shoulder by your hip.

Give the command to “heel” and then start walking.  Make sure you walk slowly and use the bait to move your dog into position.  As you walk, praise him for the heel that your gundog is doing.  Stop after 5 steps and place him into a sit.  Praise and treat.

Next, give the command again and bait him to walk beside you.  Take a few more steps and either turn to change directions, remember to bring him around in  a circle on your left side, or place him back into a sit when you stop.  Praise while you are walking so he understands that you are happy with the heel work and not with the sit.

Practice heel with the lead for several weeks until he is able to walk in a heel without the use of bait.  When your gundog is able to do this, you can begin to work without the lead although it is important to never rush this or any type of training.  If you rush, your gundog will have more problems and you will often find yourself retracing your training steps.

Again, start your heel the exact same way that you would start with a lead on, in a sit on your left side.  Give the command to “heel” and then begin walking.  Use some type of bait, whether it is a toy or a treat and walk 5 or 6 steps.  Stop and have him sit.   Praise and treat.

Repeat and turn occasionally during the heel.  If your gundog tries to move forward in front, correct him firmly with a “no” and then move him back into position.  Some dogs train easier if you wrap the lead around his neck when you first begin training off lead.  This allows you to train off lead but keeps your dog focused on the task at hand since he believes you have the other end of the lead.  As he becomes more accustomed to heeling without the lead, you can remove it from around his neck and move forward in the training.

Ron Covers Walking To Heel In Both His DVD from Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk and in his Weekly Training Program

Weimaraner Learn Recall Very Well

Before you begin training your gundog to recall, there is one warning that I would like to stress:

Never use recall before your punish or correct your dog.

If you do, you will find that your dog does not come when he is called because he thinks something bad will happen to him.  If you have to correct your dog for something, it is important that you go to him and resist the urge to use recall.

With that warning in mind, let’s move forward to training your dog for recall.

One thing that I like to do with recall is to lay the foundation for it while my dogs are still young.  Usually around 11 or 12 weeks of age and during the time that they are becoming socialized with other dogs.  Generally, it is best to allow the young gundog puppy to become engaged in play or exploration, then say his name, and give the command for recall once.  Try not to repeat the command since you want to instil instant obedience.

When he looks up and you say “come,” or “here”, you then clap your hands and make yourself look like the most enjoyable thing in the area.  When he runs to you, praise, grab his collar and then treat.  This is not the formal training but it is laying the foundation and getting him ready for it.

As your gundog puppy gets older, you can begin to train him to recall.  To do this, place him on a long lead and again, allow him to explore and become distracted.  It is important to allow him time to become immersed because if he is constantly looking over his shoulder at you, he is going to develop some bad habits and may become useless in the field.

Once he is distracted, say his name and then give the command.  If he listens, praise him when he comes up and make a big deal over his recall.  If he ignores you, bring him in by clapping and making yourself interesting.  Again, if that doesn’t work, draw him in with the lead.  Make sure you keep it positive when you do and don’t punish him for not coming.

Repeat this process until your gundog becomes more proficient with the recall command but remember that all training should be done in short periods so don’t expect recall to be perfected for several weeks or even months.

For More Info On Our 12 Month Video Training Go To Video Gundog Training

If you were to ask me what command is absolutely fundamental in gundog training, I would probably tell you “sit” and “stay.”  Sure, there are many different commands that are needed when you are working with your gundog but if you can’t teach your gundog puppy to sit and stay, then you probably shouldn’t bother with the rest.

It is often surprising to new gundog owners how often you will use sit and stay while working in the field.  It is used in the distance, when you are shooting and even during retrieves.

Since sit and stay are two separate commands, although you often use them at the same time, I will look at training your gundog to sit and stay.

Sit:

With sit, you can really lay the foundation for training by giving the command every time you gundog puppy sits. This can happen at a range of opportunities, but generally, when you walk up to your gundog puppy, he will lower his bottom to the floor.  When it does, saying sit will enforce the command.

Next, you will want to bait your gundog puppy into a sit.  This can be done in a variety of ways and I will explain each.

Technique One:  The food bowl

The food bowl technique is very common and it works well with dogs that are food oriented such as the Labrador Retriever.  During meal times, before you place the food on the floor, hold it up over his head.

Generally, your gundog puppy will look up at the food dish and this will cause his bottom to fall to the floor in a sit.  As soon as his bottom hits the floor, give the “sit” command.  Wait a few seconds and then place the food on the floor as the reward.

Technique Two:  Toys

The next technique is very similar to the food bowl but instead you will be using a toy with your gundog puppy.  Make sure that the toy isn’t a squeak toy since this can cause problems in the future.

As with the food dish, place the toy above the puppy, usually at your waist level.  When he reaches follows the toy and drops his bottom to the floor, give the sit command.  Give him praise and use the toy as a treat.

Once he is familiar with the command, you can start increasing the time between giving the command and rewarding him with the toy or the food.

Technique Three:  Bait

The last technique for teaching sit is the one that I generally use when I am training. This is works in roughly the same was as the toys and the food dish but instead, you will want to use a small treat that is about a bite sized morsel.

Holding the treat in your hand, between your fingers and your thumb, so he can’t get the treat but can simply smell it, move the treat back and above his muzzle.  Don’t move it so high that he needs to look back but enough so he has to drop his bottom to continue smelling the treat.

Before his bottom touches the ground, give the “sit” command and then praise him when he is in the sit position.  It is important to always praise before you treat because you want the praise to be all the positive reinforcement that your dog needs.

When it comes to training sit, some dogs will do better with baiting, while others will do best with the toy technique.  It is different with every individual dog so it is important to find a technique that works best with your dog.

Stay:

With stay, it is best to teach your dog when he has learned sit.  If he can’t sit, even for a short period, then don’t bother with stay.  Trust me, you will end up having to go back to sit and this can be very frustrating.

When you teach stay, give your dog the sit command and make sure he is on lead.  Once he is sitting, say, “stay” and place your palm flat in front of his face.  Don’t touch him with your hand or move quickly, just show him the flat.

Take a step back and if he doesn’t move, take a step forward, and then praise your dog for staying.

As your dog becomes more familiar with the command, take further steps away so that the stay becomes longer.  If he breaks the command, give a firm “no” and then move him back to the spot that he left from.  It is important to get him as close to the spot as possible and then give the command again before backing up.

During the early training, keep your dog leashed.  If he can escape you when he breaks command, then he will learn that he doesn’t have to listen so having that control is important.

And that is sit and stay.  Remember that training needs to be reinforced throughout your dog’s life and while they may learn a command at a young age, they can quickly lose it if they aren’t training regularly as adults.

For Full Training From A Puppy Visit Gundog Training

Ron Loves Training dogs In The Countryside

One of the most wonderful things I have ever seen is a gundog at work in the countryside. There is just something innately beautiful in the sight; the gundog weaving through tall grass and over the sparse hills as he criss-crosses in the fog of an autumn morning.  It is a sight that poets and artists have depicted for years and it is a sight that sportsmen continue to enjoy even to this day.

However, while that sight can be breathtaking, it takes a lot of work, a fair amount of grumbling and the right introductions to take a young gundog pup from the shaky legged start to the confident hunter in the field.  It is all done in steps and introducing your gundog to the countryside is one of them.

To start, you should introduce your gundog to the countryside gradually.  This means that getting out into the field shouldn’t be the very first thing you do with your gundog. Sure, it can be exciting to see a pup romping through the fields but it is not a safe practice since your puppy could catch the scent of something too tempting and be off running before you can even say stop.

For that reason, you should take care of some training before you even begin with introducing your gundog to the countryside.  The first being “here” or “come” and the second being lead work.  When your dog knows both, you can begin to introduce him to the countryside.

To start, you should never simply open up your truck and let your dog run off, sniffing and marking where he pleases.  While this may seem like fun for the dog, it isn’t something that you can allow every time you go to a field.  Remember that you won’t always be the only dog handler in the field for that day so it is important to always start your introduction the way that you would if you were on a hunt with multiple dogs.

Bring your dog out of the vehicle in a controlled way.  This means he should have his lead on and you should have full control of him.  I find that for some dogs, the first instance of being out in the countryside can be invigorating and exciting so I like to walk off to the side before I even start out into the field.

Here is the moment where I let him sniff around, mark and be generally curious and excited about the field.  I have found over the years that letting some dogs expel some of their excitement on the sideline, as it were, makes for easier handling once I get into the field. Starting this habit right from the beginning can make a big difference to how your dog works throughout his life.

Once he has sniffed around the sideline for a few minutes, start walking into the countryside.  Remember that during his first introduction, you shouldn’t let him off the lead since you want to have control over him.  To give him a bit more range, take a 20 foot lead and you can offer him a bit more range to sniff around and become accustomed to the host of different smells and terrain that is there.

When you do introduce your gundog to the countryside, take it gradually.  Choose terrain that is relatively flat and doesn’t have any of the harder obstacles for your dog.  If there are hard obstacles, avoid those parts of the field for two reasons.  First, your dog may become fearful of these obstacles if he is introduced to them at the wrong time or in the wrong way and second, your gundog could be injured when navigating them.

As he grows and becomes more familiar with the countryside, you can start to introduce him to the harder obstacles.

Lastly, if you have an older, well-trained gundog, bring him along with you when you introduce your gundog to the countryside.  Younger dogs will learn from older dogs and before you even realize it, your gundog will be happily playing and working alongside the older dog and will barely notice the obstacles to be afraid of them.

To See How Ron Trains Sam Go To Gundog Training The First 12 Months

This Video came out of the DVD i Filmed With Ron On Training Gundogs Avaliable At Amazon.com and Amazon.co.uk

Everyone who has ever watched a hunting dog retrieve has probably seen, on one occasion or another, a dummy being tossed for the dog.  It is a natural thing to see and it is a tool that many hunters, sportsmen and dog trainers use.  You can find dummies in a variety of sizes and colors but commonly you will find them in an orange to red color.

Before I look at introducing your hunting dog to the dummies, it is important to purchase the right dummy.  Regardless of what you have heard, no two dummies are alike and you can find a lot of variation between brands and even within the same brand.

Generally speaking, the shape of the dummy will be the same, which is a long cylinder like shape, much like a rolled up newspaper. On one end there should be a flap with an eye hole where you can fasten a piece of rope through to make carrying and tossing a bit easier.  Some dummies do come with the rope already attached but many do not.

When you are selecting a dummy, take your hunting dog’s size and age into account.  While he may be a larger breed, you will want to choose a dummy for a smaller breed if he is young.  The key is to find a dummy where he can fit it into his mouth comfortably.  Too big and it will hurt his mouth, causing problems with retrieving.  Too small and he may have to bite down too hard to hold it, which can lead to hard mouth, another problem you want to avoid.

In addition to the size, make sure you find the right material.   A tough canvas is the best option for a dummy and at one time, all dummies were made in this material.  However, I have seen over the years a few companies that are producing rubber dummies.  Ignore these and stay with the canvas dummies that are firmly packed.

Once you have the dummy, it is time to start introducing the dummy to your hunting dog.  Since you don’t want your dog to chew the birds as he brings them into you, you will not want him to chew the dummy.  It may seem like an excellent idea to simply give the dummy to your hunting dog to play with but this is a mistake and should be avoided.

Instead, start your dummy training with another toy that your dog enjoys playing with.  This can be a large tennis ball or any other type of toy.  Toss the tennis ball for games of retrieve and praise your hunting dog each time he brings back the ball.  This should be lots of fun but your dog will also be learning what he is supposed to do, and that is retrieve.

When he is becoming proficient with the tennis ball, start a training session where you toss the ball.  Allow him to bring it to you several times and then show your hunting dog the dummy.  Toss it a short distance for him and encourage him to go and get it.  Give him lots of praise for retrieving it and try throwing it several times.

If he hesitates, walk up to the dummy and encourage him to pick it up for him.  Remember that praise is very important and that you make it fun.  Ifyou start with the tennis ball or another toy, your hunting dog shouldn’t be too concerned about retrieving something else.

Lastly, when you are training your hunting dog to retrieve on the dummy, it is important to take into account the weight of the dummy.  If it is too heavy, it will be uncomfortable to hold.  In addition, if your hunting dog is still very young, his puppy teeth may be sensitive and he may not want to retrieve the dummy simply because it hurts his mouth.  If you find that his mouth seems to hurt in the dummy, either wait until he is a little bit older or try a slightly smaller dummy for him.

As he gets older, you can begin to remove the treat and then ask him to “watch” when you find that he isn’t focusing on the training you are doing.

Tip Number Four: Keep distractions to a minimum

Although I have already mentioned the environment and the distractions they offer, I also want to mention the distractions of other people.  Having people watch you or even working around you can be very distractive for your gundog.  Until he gets older, try to do all his training where you won’t be disturbed by anyone.

Tip Number Five: Use a lead

If you find that your gundog is having a difficult time focusing, the best thing to do is to use a lead.  This creates a link between you and your gundog and should help with keeping him focused on the task at hand.  In addition, it will keep him from wandering off after one of the many distractions that can be too hard to resist.

Lastly, one of the easiest ways to keep your gundog focused on the training is to keep the training fun.  Don’t bully your dog to do something and if he is having a hard time with a task, try a command that you know he will be successful at.

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Let’s face it, even for the trainers, us, there can be a dozen things that can happen, which test our own focus so it shouldn’t be difficult to realize that with a dozen little distractions in the environment your gundog will have just as much trouble focusing.  While it is common, it is also something that should be corrected as soon as possible and you should learn a few tricks to keep your gundog focused during training.

Tip Number One: Choose the right environment

The training environment is one of the most important elements when you are keeping your gundog focused on training and for this reason, it is my first tip. Although you will want your gundog to work in a variety of environments and will need to train him in a range of locations, there is the proper way to do it so he can stay focused.

First, when you are training a new command or task, make sure that you do it in the comfort of your own home and yard.  The more familiar your gundog is with the location, the less likely he will be distracter.  After all, he has already sniffed the flowers in the corner so he won’t feel the pressing urge to do it again when you need him to focus.

As he learns the command and is able to do it without breaking, you can change the location.  Remember to gradually build up.  If you have a field outside your yard, take him into the field.   It is better if he has been there before but as he gets older and more capable in his training, he will be able to go to a whole new location and focus.

Tip Number Two: Keep the training short

Although you may be enjoying a training session and your gundog may be as well, to keep him focused and to keep him from becoming bored, you should keep the training session limited to 15 minutes at a time.  You can train more than once a day but if they are quick mini-sessions, he is more likely to stay focused.

Tip Number Three: Teach “watch”

Everyone holds this tip in different degrees of importance but I have found it a very handy command to teach a dog.  When I give my gundog the “watch” command, he knows he needs to focus on me and that it is time to work.  I often use “watch” after I call him in from play.  He is still energized by the play and may have a difficult time focusing but the moment I say, “watch” his attention and focus is on me and the task at hand.

To teach watch, simply hold a piece of food as bait up to your face.  When he follows the bait with his eyes and then looks into your own eyes, give the command.  Hold the treat at your nose level to the count of ten and then praise and treat him.  When you do train “watch” don’t make it an actual training session, simply make it a habit that whenever you give him a treat of any kind, you have him watch you for a few moments before hand.

As he gets older, you can begin to remove the treat and then ask him to “watch” when you find that he isn’t focusing on the training you are doing.

Tip Number Four: Keep distractions to a minimum

Although I have already mentioned the environment and the distractions they offer, I also want to mention the distractions of other people.  Having people watch you or even working around you can be very distractive for your gundog.  Until he gets older, try to do all his training where you won’t be disturbed by anyone.

Tip Number Five: Use a lead

If you find that your gundog is having a difficult time focusing, the best thing to do is to use a lead.  This creates a link between you and your gundog and should help with keeping him focused on the task at hand.  In addition, it will keep him from wandering off after one of the many distractions that can be too hard to resist.

Lastly, one of the easiest ways to keep your gundog focused on the training is to keep the training fun.  Don’t bully your dog to do something and if he is having a hard time with a task, try a command that you know he will be successful at.

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Getting Eye Contact Will Help Commucation

Well, you have a new gundog and you have happily brought him home but you may be wondering how you should go about communicating with him. Sure, you probably know some of the basics but the key to bonding with your gundog is all in how you communicate with him to begin with.

For this reason, I feel it is important to address communicating with your gundog and to spend a few moments on the topic.  With all the training that I offer advice on, I want to be sure that you are starting off on the right foot and that is always a step in the direction of good communication.

Before I get into a few of the tips, I want to mention how dogs actually communicate.  While we tend to focus more on the verbal communication, a dog focuses more on the body language than on the actual verbal cues.  Yes, as he learns and progresses through training, your gundog will react to your verbal commands but when you first bring him home, he will be less likely to.

In fact, he will be communicating by reading your emotions and your body language.  In turn, he will give you cues to how he is feeling and reacting to a situation through his own body language such as lowering his ears and wagging his tail.  It is important that you study your young gundog so you can learn how he truly communicates and what, exactly, he is trying to say.

When it comes to you communicating to your dog, there are a few things that you should follow.

Never yell at your dog

Although it can be frustrating at times, especially when he is not listening, it is important that you never yell at your gundog.  This will do nothing but hurt the bond you are building with your dog and it won’t make him listen.  In addition, you should never bully or be overly aggressive with your dog since you will get a fear response, which can, in turn, create fear aggression.

Use a calm but firm voice

When you are communicating with your dog or giving him a command, you should do so with a tone that is calm, even and firm. It shouldn’t be excited and you should never whine.  It should be a voice that means he needs to listen and he needs to listen immediately.

Use a normal tone

While I have mentioned using a firm voice when giving a command, I also want to mention your tone of voice when you are giving praise.  Many people will give a dog praise with a high raised voice and this should be avoided.

Instead, when you are praising your gundog, you should give the praise in an even tone, one that is very similar to your everyday voice.  It can be slightly more emphatic to give the gundog the indication that you are pleased with him, but it shouldn’t be so emphatic that your gundog feels the need to jump and break command just so he can express how happy both of you are.

Be mindful of your body language

As I have already mentioned, dogs are very aware of body language and emotions when you communicate to them.  If you are towering over your dog, waving your hands and being overly aggressive, you dog is going to focus more on your physical cues than on what you are actually saying.  This can make training very difficult and it can hurt the bond you have built with your gundog.  Instead, try to remain calm and relaxed when communicating with your gundog.

Keep it simple

Lastly, keep your words simple.  A dog is not going to understand a long drawn out command and he is not going to pay attention to multi-part instructions.  Instead, he will be more likely to react to your communication if it is short and sweet.  So “sit”, “down” and “git on” is a better choice for dialogue as opposed to “ why don’t you take a seat,” “I think it’s time you hit the hay,” and “I think you should go beat over at that bush and then circle back to the left to find the bird.”

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