Best not Try This In The Winter, But Once They Can Swim It Looks Fun

When you first introduce your gundog to water, it can be a joy and a frustration.  You have a dog that should in all intense and purposes love the water.  You are expecting your dog to jump right in and start swimming but then, when you finally get out to the water; your dog not only refuses to go in but also behaves as though you are trying to dip him in acid.

This is where the frustration can come from.  You want your dog to enjoy himself but you also want him to enjoy himself in the water.  Still, some gundogs are just not willing to get into the water and this can put many of them at risk for a negative experience.  Some owners, especially novice owners, will simply place their puppy in water, regardless of their dog’s stress.  This should never be done since it has the potential to ruin your gundog.

Instead, introducing your gundog takes the same patience and fortitude that introducing your gundog to anything in their training.  If they don’t go in the first time, just try again and again until they go into the water.

Even with that thought in mind, there are a number of ways that you can introduce your gundog to water to make it both enjoyable and easy.

Use an older dog.

If you can, bring along an older dog that loves water.  This will give your young gundog someone to learn from. When the older dog goes in and is enjoying himself, your younger one will begin to wander in simply to be with the older dog.  J

Start in a lake or other slow moving (still) water

Starting in moving water can be a big mistake for several reasons. First, the gundog puppy could be pulled under by a strong current or taken too far downstream.  Safety is important when introducing your gundog to water.

Second, the gundog puppy may be more hesitant about entering water that is moving. This can create a negative experience from the start and will make other trips to water much harder.

Lastly, your gundog puppy may become distracted by the noise of the water and will have more difficulty focusing on you and also on what you are trying to do.

Make it a game

The last tip that I have for introducing the gundog puppy to water is to make it fun and make it a game.  When you puppy first gets to the water, throw out a dummy for him to retrieve, if he does retrieve, a few inches from the shoreline.  Your puppy will only get his feet wet but if he wants the dummy, he will have to touch the water.

When he is comfortable retrieving from a few inches away, throw the dummy a little further.  Go slow with this process and make sure that your puppy is comfortable with the new depth. Before you know it, your gundog puppy will be more than happy to dive in after anything you throw out.

It is important when you do introduce your gundog to water that you never correct or punish him for not going in the water. This is a different feel, smell and overall experience for your dog so let him dictate the length of time it takes.  If you do, you will be overjoyed with the result.

For a overview of training why not try our beginners guide to gundog dvd avaliable at amazon.com and amazon.co.uk

This is a quick video showing some typical Large Munsterlander Gundog

If one was looking for a breed of dog that was built to work, then one doesn’t have to look farther than this athletic dog that is covered in an attractive coat of mottled black and white. The Large Munsterlander gundog is a hard working gundog breed that has all the enthusiasm that one would expect from a hunting dog.

The breed is courageous and is known for their ability to be versatile in the field. They are very intelligent and combined with their eagerness to please, they are very quick to learn and with the proper guidance will stay on course when they are in the field.

When they are at home, they are a loving pet and do better if they can live in the home with their owners. In addition, they thrive when they have ample time with their family and can suffer from separation anxiety if they are left too long. They do very well with other dogs and with children but they are not suited for homes with small pets.

In addition, they are also not suited for apartment life and will do much better if they have an active family that is willing to give it the attention and exercise the breed needs.

Pro’s and con’s of owning an Large Munsterlander

The Large Munsterlander is a versatile gundog that seems to be the perfect breed for both home and field. They are happy to work in a number of tasks and usually seem happiest when they are at work. When they aren’t working, they make excellent family dogs and they are very loyal to their owners. Unfortunately, they can be overly clingy and if they are not properly exercised or stimulated, they can be very destructive. The Large Munsterlander is an active dog that is not suited for everyone and it is important to be aware of their pros and cons before you purchase one.

The Pro’s

One look at the Large Munsterlander and you can see that it is a beautiful breed with its unique black and white mottled coat and large dark eyes. This is an intelligent breed that has shown its worth in the field as a versatile gundog that can be used in a variety of ways including pointing, retrieving and tracking.

• They are a rare breed and most are bred for gundog work

• They are very intelligent and are usually very eager to please. This makes them easier to train.

• They are very sociable and do well in homes with other dogs.

• The Large Munsterlander is a gentle breed and they do very well with children.

• They are a hard working breed.

The Con’s

The Large Munsterlander has proved too many sportsmen that they are an amazing breed of dog that is versatile in the field and at home but they are not a breed for everyone. This is an active breed that prefers family life to kennel and they may not be suitable for everyone.

• They can be very vocal dogs.

• They are a rare breed of dog so the waiting lists can be quite long and they can be expensive. In addition, many breeders only sell to hunting families.

• The Large Munsterlander is an average shedder with periods in the year where they are high shedders.

• They require a fair amount of grooming.

• They are not suited for homes that have small animals since they do have a strong prey drive.

• The Large Munsterlander is not suited for kennel life and will become destructive if they are separated from their family for long periods of time.

• They are active dogs that require at least 60 minutes of exercise per day, sometimes more.

• They are not suited for apartments and do much better in a home with a large fenced yard.

• They can be very mouthy and are prone to nipping and chewing.

Health Issues:

The Large Munsterlander is a very healthy breed and as of now, many studies are being put forward to test the health issues in the breeds. As it stands, there are very few health problems but it is important to purchase from a reputable breeder that has properly screened their dogs before breeding to insure that the breed remains healthy. Some issues that are seen in the Large Munsterlander are:

• Hip Dysplasia

• Eye Problems

Height & Weight:

The Large Munsterlander is a medium sized dog that has the appearance of a well balanced athletic breed. They are well muscled with well sprung ribs, slightly tucked up abdomen and a square body that is the same length as it is high. They should be elegant in appearance with enough muscle to appear solid but not bulky.

The size of a Large Munsterlander is:

Males: 24 to 26 inches (60 to 65 cm) tall

Females: 23 to 25 inches (58 to 63 cm) tall

Weight for both the male and female Large Munsterlander should be 50 to 70 pounds (23 to 32 kg.)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

The Large Munsterlander’s grooming needs are actually different between male and female and it usually is because of the length of the coat. Females have a shorter coat than males and because of this, the female’s only need to be brushed once or twice a week to keep the fur free of any debris, mats and dead hairs. Males, on the other hand, require a brushing either daily or every other day.

The breed on the whole, is considered to be an average shedder but there are periods in the year when they are heavy shedders. During this time, the dog should be brushed frequently to keep the amount of hair to a minimal.

Bathing should only be done when the dog needs it and can be done on a monthly or bi-monthly basis, although some dogs can be bathed less and some need to be bathed more. Care should be taken of the ears and they should be kept clean and dry to prevent ear infections.

Nails should be kept trimmed and any excess hair should be trimmed from between the toes.

Life Expectancy: 12 to 13 years

History:

The Large Munsterlander can trace its origins back to Germany and is believed to have been developed in Munster, Germany. Although the breed is still fairly young, it is believed to be traced back to the early 1800’s but it was considered to be a color variation of the German Longhaired Pointer.

It wasn’t until the early 1900’s that the Large Munsterlander was recognized for what it really was, a versatile hunting dog that was separate from the German Longhaired Pointer. The Large Munsterlander club was formed in 1919 and the breed was imported to the United States in 1966 where it has continued to grow slowly in popularity.

Grouping:

Gun Dog

Recognition:

LMCNA, FCI, KCGB, NKC, NZKC, CKC, ANKC, APRI, ACR

Click For more on large Munsterlander gundog

I Was hoping to give you a video of sam on his first duck shoot this week but due to a few training issues in the last week, i have got a film of a similar aged labrador which is retreiving some ducks.

Even though 10-12 months is to early to be taking dogs shooting on proper shoots you can introduce them to some duck, will show you sam in the next few weeks, for more on sams training go to hunting dog training

That brings us to this weeks topic of what makes a good duck shooting gundog

Like many other types of gundogs, there really is no mystery about what that gundog is used for. A goose or duck-shooting gundog is one, in simple terms, that is used for hunting goose and duck.

Of course, there is never juts a simple explanation and I wouldn’t feel right if I didn’t get into it a bit more than simply stating the obvious. In general, a duck or goose-shooting gundog is a gundog that can work on both land and water. This is the dog that can sit with you as you wait patiently for the ducks or goose and it is a dog that does not start at the sudden gunfire that can occur during a duck hunt.

In addition, the goose/duck shooting gundog is one that doesn’t become overly excited as the birds fly overhead and takes off in pursuit of them.

With a goose/duck shooting gundog, your gundog will sit patiently in the blind or wherever you are sitting until you give the command to retrieve the birds that you have shot. The dog will then go into the water or wherever the bird landed and will retrieve it.

If a bird is crippled, but not dead, the dog will quickly retrieve it and bring it back for you to dispatch it humanely. A goose/duck shooting gundog is conditioned and trained to pick up these types of wildfowl and they are comfortable in their role on the shoot.

My Kids would love a puppy but i always end up with a adult gundog like Charlie or my new gundog Tia (Above)

Everyone loves a puppy, even people who don’t really like dogs so it is no wonder that many people are interested in purchasing a puppy to start as a gundog than they are in purchasing an adult. While there are many advantages to purchasing an adult gundog as to purchasing a puppy, there are also several disadvantages.

Generally, many people feel that a good gundog will start training young and should be purchased as a puppy but I have seen many excellent gundogs come out of dogs purchased as adults. These are dogs, by the way, that have had no formal training in field work but they were still able to outshine the puppies that were bred and raised for field work only.

That being said, I want to look at the advantages and disadvantages of starting with an adult gundog. Like everything else to do with your dog, you will need to make the decision between whether you want to start with an adult dog or whether you want to start with a puppy. Believe it or not, this decision will greatly affect how you will approach gundog training and it may also affect the time it takes to get out for hunting, although this is not always the case.

Since I love to start on a positive note, I am going to start with the advantages of starting an adult gundog.

Advantages of Starting with an Adult Gundog:

• He may be trained completely. Depending on the dog you get, you may have a fully trained gundog on your hands which means that after a few months, until you have set up a bond with him, that you can start working him. Of course, the gundog might not be properly trained and then you will have to start at square one.
• You don’t have to housetrain. Usually this is a big bonus for starting with an adult dog. Most of them are house trained so you don’t have to deal with all the accidents in the house. If you have them outside, then you aren’t going to worry about this as much but it is still something to consider.
• Some of the potential health risks may be avoided. Since there are a number of health issues that occur before the dog reaches the age of two, purchasing an adult dog instead of a puppy may help you avoid some of the health risks. Of course, some do not appear until later in life so don’t expect to be free of all the risks.
• They can be fielded faster. Training a puppy can take a lot of time and is a lot of responsibility. Starting with a trained adult dog means that you can get out in the field much sooner than you could if you have start with a puppy.
• Basic training may be finished. If you are purchasing a dog that has not been trained for gundog training, you will probably be training a dog that has basic training. Since the building blocks are in place, you don’t really need to start with basic training and you can move on to the field training much faster.
• You avoid the puppy stage. While puppies can be very cute, they are also a lot of work and it just isn’t the housetraining that can be difficult. They are active, rambunctious and will constantly get into stuff. By purchasing an adult dog, you get to avoid that age and simply enjoy a steadier time with your dog, at least most of the time.

Disadvantages of Starting with an Adult Gundog:

• You may not bond with the dog. This can be one of the biggest disadvantages of starting with an adult dog since a lot of bonding takes place during the puppy stage. While you can still create a bond with an older dog, it may not be as strong as one that you have nurtured throughout your dog’s life.
• The dog may be improperly trained. Training is not always done correctly and when you purchase an older dog, you run the risk of all forms of training not being properly established. This is across the board with basic training, housetraining, and finally, field training.
• You might not know the pedigree. If you are purchasing a finished gundog, then chances are this won’t be a problem but if you are adopting a gundog breed from a shelter, there is no way to know the pedigree or if it came from field lines. This might not matter in the training, but then again, it may.
• You miss the puppy stage. Okay, I know I just cited this as an advantage but in some ways it is actually a disadvantage. There are many positives to starting with a puppy and while you avoid a lot of the cons if you start with an adult, you do miss all the positives.
• There may be several issues. Aggression, socialization problems, mouthing problems, and a variety of other issues can arise if you start with an adult gundog. It is not always easy to see these problems when you first purchase a gundog but they may be there and they may destroy any effort you make to work your adult gundog.
• You don’t know the dog’s history. The last disadvantage that I am going to mention is not knowing the dog’s history. Were there problems with the development? Did he receive all the proper vaccinations and medical treatments? Did he have any growing problems? Was he abused or neglected? Some things may be clear while others may not be evident until a major problem arises.

In the end, it is up to the individual to decide whether they want to purchase a puppy or start with an adult gundog. Both have their disadvantages and advantages but with a little work, you can have an excellent gundog no matter what age you purchase him at.

Ron Likes All His Dogs In Kennel's I Kind Of Disagree

Before I begin this blog post today, I just want to start off by saying that there really is no right way or wrong way to house your gun dog. Every breed, dog and owner will have different success and opinions on where a gun dog should be kept but when it comes down to the actual statistics of success, it is usually six to one and half dozen to the other.

Basically, that being said there are a number of breeds that do not thrive in a kennelling situation and you will find that I mention this in all the breed profiles that you will find throughout this site. In addition, every trainer will feel differently about housing issues but regardless of popular opinion, there are many pros and cons to keeping your gundog outside and I would like to address those today.

The Pros of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Like everything, there are always a number of pros that will come into play when you make your decision on housing your hunting dog and it is very important to look at them. Many trainers feel that the pros far outweigh the cons and often feel that housing a gundog inside will not only affect their training but will also destroy any potential to do so. That belief, in itself, is a good reason why you should kennel outside but it isn’t the only reason.

The gundog’s training is more controlled: This is one of the major pros of keeping your gundog in a kennel. When a gundog lives inside there are many bad habits that can occur. First, you are constantly training your dog and sometimes those lessons are very negative.

Since the gundog is given free reign of a house, he is less likely to listen when told to do something such as sit in place. Also, he is more likely to get into things that capitalize on his natural instincts. If he gets into something that would bring a correction, it can inadvertently teach him to ignore his natural hunting instincts.

A dog that is kept in a kennel is not constantly learning or capitalizing on negative behaviors and you can really say when and what he is learning or being trained to do.

The gundog has his own space: Something that is another pro is that the gundog has his own space outside. This is his room where he goes when training is over and he can take a break. It also provides a strong split from work and rest and your dog will know that he is going to be working the minute you open up the kennel door.

The gundog is eager to train: One behavior that most trainers have seen with their hunting dogs is the fact that they are always very eager to train. When their owners come up to the kennel, they know that now is the time to get out and get active. They are very excited to get to work and receive praise for all of their hard work.

In addition, training is a great way to break up some of the boredom the dog will feel in the kennel. This means that training, and hunting, is fun for the dog and he will usually be much easier to handle when you take him out since he is striving for his rewards and for a nice outlet for his energy.

The Cons of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Since I have mentioned the pros of keeping your gundog outside, it is only appropriate that I go over a few of the cons that can occur when you house your gundog outside.

The gundog is not well socialized: Although this is not the case with all kennel raised gundogs, it can be very easily since socializing is often overlooked by all dog owners, regardless of how their dog is used.

A gundog that is kept outside may not have much opportunity to learn about interacting with other people and animals and may become aggressive or timid when they are around anyone other than their owner and trainer.

The gundog may not bond: Again, another thing that may or may not happen but since a gundog is not interacting on a regular basis with their owners; they may not have as strong of a connection to them. If an owner takes the time to interact with his dog several times per day, then this bond will be built but if interaction is minimal, then the bond may not develop and you won’t have a dog that performs to his best potential.

The gundog may have behavioral problems: Remember, a kennel is a dog’s room and if you keep your gundog outside, he may become used to being king of that kennel. This can lead to dominance issues during training and it can also lead to territorial aggression.

In addition, gundogs that are kept outside, especially if it is a breed that is not suited for it, may begin to exhibit separation anxiety and will become destructive, may dig and will often bark, which can be a nuisance to both you and your neighbors. Lastly, the gundog may not housetrain completely and this can be a problem if you need to have him inside for any reason.

Even with the pros and cons, housing your dog is up to the individual owner and trainer and it is possible to utilize both your house and an outdoor kennel so that your gundog is given the best of both worlds with all the advantages.

To find out more on Rond Training methods Visit Amazon and get yourself a copy of the DVD

For The UK Click UK Gundog DVD

For The US Click US GunDog DVD

I Had a Harder Problem Than Most As Charlie Was a Rescue Dog

Every person who has ever brought home a small puppy has been faced with the same problem, naming him. Some people have a name chosen long before they find the puppy, while others will simply sleep on it but in the end the puppy is named and officially becomes a part of the family. I had a even harder job with Charlie asd he had a name when i got him, but the rescue kennel never tells you what it is.
While the goal is to have your gundog become a part of your family, choosing a name for your hunting dog or dogs can be a bit more involved than simply assigning a name. There are a number of factors that should come into play and you should really take the time to think about them before you choose a name.

When it comes to names, there are actually two different names that you are going to want to think about; the call name and the registered name. Generally, when you purchase a hunting dog, many people will purchase from registered hunting dogs. This means that they are trying to find the best dogs they can and they will also be registering their dogs with the local kennel club.

While a registered name can be just about anything, there are a few things you should consider. First and foremost is how that name is going to sound. Will you be embarrassed by it or proud to have a dog by that name? If the dog is only going to be used for hunting and nothing else, then the name isn’t going to matter but if you are going to be training your dog in field trials or you are going to be breeding your hunting dog, then you will want a strong name that you don’t mind having associated with your kennel.

One common practice for hunting dogs is to use part of the dam’s or sire’s registered name for the puppy’s registered name. Generally, a female will have her dam’s or other females in her pedigree, name or combination of the name. For males, it would be the sire’s or subsequent males in the pedigree. Take one or two names from the parents and combine them with a name that you like. This will usually create an excellent registered name and then you can forget about it until it is time for breeding or assigning a title to your hunting dog.

One last thing about registered names, it doesn’t have to match or even have anything to do with your call name. You can have a registered dog called Turner’s Savage Hunter and his call name could simply be Joe; the registered name is for identifying your dog in a large kennel but the call name is something that will really show his personality.

Now that we have looked at the registered name, let’s look at the call names. As I have already said, this is the name that will really define the dog’s personality and will give the dog character. This is the name that you will use both in the field and in the house so there are a few points that you will want to consider before choosing your name.

First, never choose a name from a Hunting Dog Name list, unless it is one you can see using. While these lists are fun to look at, not all of them really take into consideration what a dog’s name should be like in the field. They are purely for looks, sort of speaking, and usually they don’t serve as a good functioning name.

Second, find a name that you like and one that you won’t have a problem saying in front of people. While naming the dog, Nimrod, may appease your interest in ancient mythology, it might be a bit embarrassing to say in a group of other hunters.

Third, make sure the name only has one or two syllables. This makes saying the name much easier on the field and it is more likely to roll off the tongue much easier. A name that is more advanced with three or more syllables takes too long to say and can be annoying in the field.

Lastly, make sure it doesn’t sound similar to a command that you will use in the field. Remember you will be giving those commands from a distance and if the dog is unsure whether you are saying their name or giving a command, he won’t perform to the best of his ability.

After those points, it is simply a matter of choosing a name that you enjoy and one that suits your dog. If you are naming a group of hunting dogs, make sure that each dog has a name that is distinct from the other so there is no confusion. Tom, Dick and Harry may not be the most original but there is no way that they sound the same.

It is best to get your dog use to other dogs before you thke them on a shoot

While I like to focus on gun dogs, I find that introducing your gundog to other shooting dogs is done in a similar way than you would with any other dog. It can be a stressful time for both the dog and owner and it really needs to be done correctly, especially if it is the first contact your dog has with other dogs. The first experience can set the tone for all the other introductions and can really make or break a dog.

Generally, when it comes to introducing your dog, it is always best to expect the worst case scenario from happening. Even if you know the dogs or the owners of the dogs, there is no way to know how the dogs will react to each other. In addition, unless you know the trainer, you won’t be sure how the owner will feel about the interaction or what he will stop or allow to happen.

For this reason, you should always make sure that all the dogs are leashed before you start the introduction. While the dogs may be working together off lead, the initial introduction should be done in as controlled a situation as possible. If it is possible, I would recommend making the introduction before you begin hunting together. This gives you a bit more of an idea of how they will work together and will alleviate a lot of the worries you will have, especially when you are hunting with live rounds.

Start by bringing the dogs together on their leads but make sure there is a space between them. Start with 10 feet and watch both dogs to identify any signs of aggression on either side. Make sure to stay relaxed since your anxiety can trigger some forms of aggression in your dog. Also check with the other owner on how their dog is doing since they will know him much better than you do.

If there are no signs of aggression, it is time to shorten the distance. Place the dog in a “sit” and then have the other dog walk past her. Make sure that he never comes closer than the half the original distance. Once the dog has passed, repeat this with your dog walking past the other dog while he sits. Repeat several times and check for any aggression on either dog’s part.

When they can handle this, you can start moving towards each other head on. This can trigger some aggression so be very careful not to come too close to each other. Once they are comfortable, have the dogs sit about 3 feet from each other. Praise them for their good behavior and then gradually shorten the distance until they are able to greet each other by sitting and sniffing.

Each time you shorten the distance, take the time to allow them to adjust to the new closeness before moving closer again.

Once they have greeted each time, simply sit back and relax. Don’t let them off lead but give them more freedom in increments. First they can sniff faces, then they can start to sniff the body, then they can get closer and slowly start to interact in other ways.

When they don’t have any aggression indicators, and they are familiar with each other, you can begin working them together but it is important to still focus on the dogs and make sure that some aggression doesn’t occur when you are working them.

Be sure to read other posts on my blog, especally on breed type to understand more how they get on

Hope You Enjoy This Video Overview Of The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a medium sized hunting dog that is known for their beautiful red coat that often brings to mind the coat of a Golden Retriever. In fact, many people often mistake these dogs for miniature Golden Retrievers but they are not like them in any way, except in appearance. In many of the dogs, a white tip on the end of their tail is also seen and is used in an interesting manner by the dog.

These are very hard working gundogs and while they can be very friendly to their own family members, they are usually reserved and distrustful of people they don’t know and they have a very strong prey drive, which makes them unsuitable for homes with smaller pets.

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a very active breed that requires a lot of exercise. They are used in a variety of ways in the field but have an interesting way of luring ducks, which is called Tolling.

This is a rare breed and while it may not have the personality of a lot of retrievers, there is little doubt that you can see some amazing things when you see a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever in the field.

Pro’s and con’s of owning a Flat Coated Retriever.

Like all breeds, there are a number of pros and cons involved with the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. While this is a very friendly breed that brings a unique dynamic to duck hunting and to the family, it is also not a breed that is suitable for everyone. They have a very strong prey drive and they also have a lot of energy.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever and if you are looking for a smaller, very energetic gundog, then this is definitely the breed for you.

• They do well in a variety of dwellings and will even do well in apartments.

• They are very friendly dogs and usually do well with children of all ages.

• They look similar to the Golden Retriever, only smaller. It is important to note that this is not a miniature Golden Retriever. They have different personalities than the Golden Retriever and there is a distinct difference between them. If you want to upset a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever breeder, simply refer to their dogs as a Golden Retriever.

• Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers are very hard working dogs.

• They usually do very well with other dogs.

• They are very good at being a guard dog and will alert bark.

• They have a very unique way of luring birds called Tolling, which is where they get their name from.

• They are a rare breed.

• They are considered to be moderate shedders.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. The breed has an active personality that does not work for everyone.

• They are a working breed so they have lots of energy. Expect to exercise your Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever about 30 to 60 minutes per day.

• Since the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a rare breed, there can be a long waiting list to purchase one.

• There is a small breeding pool for the breed and some diseases are beginning to occur in the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever.

• They will need to be groomed on a weekly basis.

• This is not a clean dog. Yes they are easy to groom but the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever delights in rolling in puddles and jumping in mud. They will quickly put that mud into the house the moment they come in.

• They are not as friendly as other retrievers and tend to be a bit reserved with people.

• They need to be properly socialized to avoid any aggression, especially stranger aggression.

• The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has a very strong prey drive. They are not recommended for homes with cats or other small animals. They will also chase squirrels and other animals in their yard if they are given the chance.

Health Issues:

When it comes to health, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a very hardy breed but there have been a number of diseases that have and are becoming a problem for the breed. This is due to the fact that there is a very limited number of dogs in the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever’s breeding pool. It is very important that you make sure that all health checks have been done on the parents and that the breeder is using healthy breeding stock. This will help not only lower the risk of having an unhealthy gundog but will also ensure that the disorders that are occurring in the breed are prevented. If you doubt at any time that they are, look for a new breeder.

• Hip Dysplasia
• Deafness
• Systemic Lupus Erythematosus (SLE)
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)
• Auto-immune Hemolytic Anemia
• Hypothyroidism
• Hydrocephalus
• Chondrodysplasia
• Cataracts
• Epilepsy
• Megaesophagus
• Addison’s Disease
• Collie Eye Anomaly

Height & Weight:

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a medium sized dog that is used for retrieving. They are usually slightly longer than they are tall and they are a breed that is known for its well balanced and appearance of being a powerful athlete. While there is a range of acceptable height, the idea size for a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is 19 inches (48 cm) for a male and 18 inches (46 cm) for a female.

The size of a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is:

Males: 18 to 21 inches (46 to 53 cm) tall and 45 to 51 pounds (21 to 23 kg)

Females: 17 to 20 inches (43 to 51 cm) tall and 37 to 43 pounds (17 to 20 kg)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

When it comes to grooming the medium coat of the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, many people often feel that it will take a lot of time. In fact, it doesn’t take much time at all and a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever can be brushed on a weekly basis to keep the tangles and mats from the hair.

In addition, you should always take the time to brush the coat whenever your dog comes in from the field since brambles and other debris can cause a lot of problems. Generally, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is considered to be a moderate shedder, except when they are blowing their coat.

The other grooming that should be done with this breed is to strip any mats out of the coat and to also keep the hair between the dog’s toes kept trim. Nails should also be kept trimmed and ears should be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent ear infections.

With bathing, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever should only be bathed when it is absolutely necessary and could probably done once or twice a year.

Life Expectancy: 12 to 14 years

History:

The history of the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is not entirely clear. We do know that it originated in Little River, which is in Nova Scotia, Canada but we aren’t exactly sure how they came to be. It is believed that the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever was developed in the early 1800’s but there has been some evidence that the dogs may have existed as far back as the 17th century.

In fact, the dog was recorded by a Nicholas Denys (1598-1688) who wrote of the small red dogs and their amazing retrieving ability but many people believe that these dogs were ancestors of the Nova Scotia Duck tolling Retriever as the dog is today.

Still, even with that murky history behind them, most enthusiasts believe that the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever can own their origins to James Allen who crossed a liver colored Flat Coated Retriever with a St. John’s dog. From those dogs, the puppies were bred to Cocker Spaniels and the Irish Setter and it is believed that the Golden Retriever, Chesapeake Bay Retriever and the Collie were also introduced into the line.

Although it has a fairly long history, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has remained a rare breed and was not recognized by the CKC until 1945 and the AKC until 2003.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, UKC, CKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

I Just adore Young Gundog Puppies

In an early post, I have talked about how performing a health check on a puppy and I looked at things to look for when you are purchasing a puppy. Today, I would like to talk about how to actually select a gundog puppy to ensure that you have a greater chance of choosing the best possible puppy from the litter.

Before I get into those points, however, I would like to mention a few things. First and foremost, when you are deciding on a puppy it is important that you really decide on a breed and that you know the breed. While I offer a lot of information about dog breeds here, I always stress the importance of meeting a breed in person and seeing it in action. The reason for this is because some breeds look amazing on paper but in person, you might find that you clash with the breed.

Once you have researched and chosen your breed, it is time to start looking for a breeder. My general rule of thumb is that choosing a good gundog puppy will take about 6 to 12 months from start to finish.

Depending on your breed, you might find yourself on a long waiting list and it can take over a year to get a puppy in your preferred breed from your preferred breeder, especially if it is a rare breed, so be prepared to wait.

When you are looking for a breeder there are a few things to be aware of.

1. Make sure the breeder is breeding field dogs. Some breeds have seen a branch off from their original use and it is not uncommon to find a breeder that only breeds show quality dogs. This isn’t to say that the show quality can’t be used in the field but many hunters have found that they get better gundog puppies when they purchase from field bred dogs.

2. All the health clearances should be done. This means hips, elbows and eyes should be checked and cleared and a health check should be done prior to breeding. If the breeder doesn’t do clearances, then run; don’t walk, away from that breeder.

3. Find a breeder that is knowledgeable. Since you are looking for a gundog puppy, the best way to find one is to find a breeder that is knowledgeable in that area. Try to find one that actually hunts or, at the very least, competes in various field or hunt competitions. These are the breeders that are going to answer your questions and they will also lay the foundation in the puppies to ensure they create amazing gundogs.

4. Choose the picky breeder. Most people, when they meet a picky breeder, often feel very frustrated by the process. They often wonder why they need to fill in questionnaires and why they need to give a pint of blood as well, okay, I might be exaggerating on the latter but if your breeder isn’t picky, then they probably aren’t going to invest that much into their puppies to begin with.

Once you have a breeder and the litter is on the ground, it will be time to choose your puppy. To do this, you will want to first assess what you want in your gundog. Do you want it to be independent? Do you want it to be a dominant with other dogs? When you know the type of dog you want, you can get a clearer idea of the puppy you should choose. Even if you aren’t sure, there are few tips below that will help you choose a puppy.

1. Look for balance: When you go to see the puppies, take the time to observe them in motion. Look for the dog that has good proportion and has fairly good balance for its age. Generally, if you wait until the puppies are about 7 weeks old, you can get a good idea of how it will look as an adult. Find the puppy that has the closest attributes to what you are looking for.

2. Watch the puppies interact: It is often surprising to many people that puppies as young as 6 weeks old have their own hierarchy but it is true. There are more dominant dogs in the litter and more submissive. Watch the puppies playing together and determine how the hierarchy is arranged. From there you can choose a dog according to what you are looking for.

3. Determine their interest: Some gundog breeders will expose their puppies to birds before they leave their home but try to assess how the puppies react to things like that. Bring a toy or dummy and toss it into the litter, make sure it is off to the side. Watch the puppies that show an interest in it since these are usually the puppies that have more hunting instincts.

4. Check to see if they are healthy: Lastly, when you have narrowed your gundog puppy down to one or two puppies, do a health check. You can follow our health check or you can ask your vet for a sample health check.

Choosing a gundog puppy can be fairly easy and it is important to make the final decision based on everything I mentioned as well as your gut instinct. If for any reason a puppy just doesn’t sit well with you, then don’t purchase it. In addition, make sure you really take the advice of the breeder since they will often know the puppies much better than you can in one visit and will point you in the direction of the best dog.

At The Moment Me And Ron Are Filming A Video For Training Your Gundog Puppy From Start To Finish, For More Info

Click Here Gundog Training

As you have seen in the past few weeks, there are a number of hereditary health problems that can occur in gundogs. These are all very serious and while there are a number of things that you can do to reduce the risk of these problems, there will always be a small chance that your gundog can get that disease.

While I have talked about hereditary health problems, I also feel that it is important to talk about non-hereditary health problems. These problems are actually ones that tend to confuse people because all of them are associated with certain breeds. In this case, many people assume that these are risks that are hereditary based but it is important to note that they aren’t.

All non-hereditary health problems are not hereditary. Any breed of dog, regardless of the breed’s predisposition, can have one of these health problems. They are caused for a number of reasons, many of them environmental, and they are not caused by a genetic inheritance.

That being said, there are some non-hereditary health problems that are seen more commonly in certain gundog breeds and those are the ones that I will be looking at in this article. In the future, I will have another article on other non-hereditary health problems but for now I would like to review five of them.

Gastric Torsion: Gastric Torsion, Torsion, Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus or Bloat is a very common health problem that is seen in many different breeds of dogs. While it is not a hereditary problem, it is one that is more commonly seen in breeds with a deep chest, such as the Labrador Retriever.

Gastric Torsion occurs when there is a sudden influx of gas in the stomach. This is caused by a number of factors but it has been linked to overfeeding, deep chests, old age, and blockages caused by expanded food. When it does occur, the stomach begins to fill up with gas and then distend and possibly twist.

When this occurs, the dog should have immediate treatment since it can lead to death if the dog does not have medical intervention. Symptoms for gastric torsion are hard to determine from other diseases but they include a distension of the stomach, symptoms of pain and distress such as panting and restlessness, vomiting, hypersalivation, weakness and loss of appetite.

Treatment for gastric torsion is usually surgery and there is a fatality rate of 10 to 60% depending on the severity of the condition.

Conjunctivitis: Another common health problem that can be seen in many gundog breeds is conjunctivitis. This is caused by an inflammation of the eye due to an irritant being trapped in the eye or more specifically in the protective coating the covers the eye called the conjunctiva.

When the conjunctiva becomes inflamed, the eye will begin to swell and will look red. The dog will also have a lot of discomfort and will begin rubbing the eye and face around their eyes. Usually there is a discharge coming from the eye, which only causes more problems for the dog.

Treatment of conjunctivitis is usually done with medication but in cases where it is severe, surgery may be needed.

Ear infections: Ear infections are quite common in many gundog breeds and are usually caused by a variety of reasons. Generally, most dog breeds that have pendulous ears, ears that hang down, are prone to ear infections since those ears will trap dirt, debris and moisture much easier than other types of ears.

When the moisture is trapped, the dog’s ear will become inflamed and an ear infection will ensue. Ear infections can be treated easily with medication from your veterinarian but it is easier to prevent them. Make sure that your dog’s ears are kept clean and dry them after your dog has been in the water.

Cold Tail: When an owner first experiences cold tail, there is actually a lot of worry involved. Generally, cold tail occurs after the dog has been in water, both cold and warm, or the dog was out in cold weather for a certain period of time.

What cold tail is is actually a limpness that occurs about three or four inches up on the tail. The end result is a tail that looks almost like it has been sprained and it simply hangs from the limp spot in the tail.

Generally, most dogs are not affected by cold tail but some dogs may experience pain at the site of the “break.” Treatment of cold tail is to simply allow it time to heal. Usually, the dog’s tail will be healed within two weeks but if you are concerned about any pain, you may want to seek medical attention for your dog.

Demodectic Mange: Also known as Demodex is a skin problem that is caused by a microscopic mite, known as the Demodex Canis, that burrows into the dogs skin. Generally, many dogs can live with the mite in their skin without any problems but when there is an imbalance, the mite causes a skin infection in the dog.

This is skin disease can range in severity and my only be a small patch of mild red skin or a scaly lesion on either the leg or face of the dog to a full mange where the dog has scaly skin over its whole body, patchy fur and large bald spots.

Demodectic mange is not contagious between older dogs, however, it is paused between the mother and puppy when the latter is first born and if it hasn’t contracted the might by the first few days, it generally won’t contract it.

The treatment for demodectic mange is usually a dip but treatment should be discussed with a veterinarian fist. If your dog is female and has demodectic mange then it should not be bred.

Part 2 will be out soon so keep reading, for hereditary problems see all posts under the health and wellbeing category