This is a quick video showing some typical Large Munsterlander Gundog

If one was looking for a breed of dog that was built to work, then one doesn’t have to look farther than this athletic dog that is covered in an attractive coat of mottled black and white. The Large Munsterlander gundog is a hard working gundog breed that has all the enthusiasm that one would expect from a hunting dog.

The breed is courageous and is known for their ability to be versatile in the field. They are very intelligent and combined with their eagerness to please, they are very quick to learn and with the proper guidance will stay on course when they are in the field.

When they are at home, they are a loving pet and do better if they can live in the home with their owners. In addition, they thrive when they have ample time with their family and can suffer from separation anxiety if they are left too long. They do very well with other dogs and with children but they are not suited for homes with small pets.

In addition, they are also not suited for apartment life and will do much better if they have an active family that is willing to give it the attention and exercise the breed needs.

Pro’s and con’s of owning an Large Munsterlander

The Large Munsterlander is a versatile gundog that seems to be the perfect breed for both home and field. They are happy to work in a number of tasks and usually seem happiest when they are at work. When they aren’t working, they make excellent family dogs and they are very loyal to their owners. Unfortunately, they can be overly clingy and if they are not properly exercised or stimulated, they can be very destructive. The Large Munsterlander is an active dog that is not suited for everyone and it is important to be aware of their pros and cons before you purchase one.

The Pro’s

One look at the Large Munsterlander and you can see that it is a beautiful breed with its unique black and white mottled coat and large dark eyes. This is an intelligent breed that has shown its worth in the field as a versatile gundog that can be used in a variety of ways including pointing, retrieving and tracking.

• They are a rare breed and most are bred for gundog work

• They are very intelligent and are usually very eager to please. This makes them easier to train.

• They are very sociable and do well in homes with other dogs.

• The Large Munsterlander is a gentle breed and they do very well with children.

• They are a hard working breed.

The Con’s

The Large Munsterlander has proved too many sportsmen that they are an amazing breed of dog that is versatile in the field and at home but they are not a breed for everyone. This is an active breed that prefers family life to kennel and they may not be suitable for everyone.

• They can be very vocal dogs.

• They are a rare breed of dog so the waiting lists can be quite long and they can be expensive. In addition, many breeders only sell to hunting families.

• The Large Munsterlander is an average shedder with periods in the year where they are high shedders.

• They require a fair amount of grooming.

• They are not suited for homes that have small animals since they do have a strong prey drive.

• The Large Munsterlander is not suited for kennel life and will become destructive if they are separated from their family for long periods of time.

• They are active dogs that require at least 60 minutes of exercise per day, sometimes more.

• They are not suited for apartments and do much better in a home with a large fenced yard.

• They can be very mouthy and are prone to nipping and chewing.

Health Issues:

The Large Munsterlander is a very healthy breed and as of now, many studies are being put forward to test the health issues in the breeds. As it stands, there are very few health problems but it is important to purchase from a reputable breeder that has properly screened their dogs before breeding to insure that the breed remains healthy. Some issues that are seen in the Large Munsterlander are:

• Hip Dysplasia

• Eye Problems

Height & Weight:

The Large Munsterlander is a medium sized dog that has the appearance of a well balanced athletic breed. They are well muscled with well sprung ribs, slightly tucked up abdomen and a square body that is the same length as it is high. They should be elegant in appearance with enough muscle to appear solid but not bulky.

The size of a Large Munsterlander is:

Males: 24 to 26 inches (60 to 65 cm) tall

Females: 23 to 25 inches (58 to 63 cm) tall

Weight for both the male and female Large Munsterlander should be 50 to 70 pounds (23 to 32 kg.)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

The Large Munsterlander’s grooming needs are actually different between male and female and it usually is because of the length of the coat. Females have a shorter coat than males and because of this, the female’s only need to be brushed once or twice a week to keep the fur free of any debris, mats and dead hairs. Males, on the other hand, require a brushing either daily or every other day.

The breed on the whole, is considered to be an average shedder but there are periods in the year when they are heavy shedders. During this time, the dog should be brushed frequently to keep the amount of hair to a minimal.

Bathing should only be done when the dog needs it and can be done on a monthly or bi-monthly basis, although some dogs can be bathed less and some need to be bathed more. Care should be taken of the ears and they should be kept clean and dry to prevent ear infections.

Nails should be kept trimmed and any excess hair should be trimmed from between the toes.

Life Expectancy: 12 to 13 years

History:

The Large Munsterlander can trace its origins back to Germany and is believed to have been developed in Munster, Germany. Although the breed is still fairly young, it is believed to be traced back to the early 1800’s but it was considered to be a color variation of the German Longhaired Pointer.

It wasn’t until the early 1900’s that the Large Munsterlander was recognized for what it really was, a versatile hunting dog that was separate from the German Longhaired Pointer. The Large Munsterlander club was formed in 1919 and the breed was imported to the United States in 1966 where it has continued to grow slowly in popularity.

Grouping:

Gun Dog

Recognition:

LMCNA, FCI, KCGB, NKC, NZKC, CKC, ANKC, APRI, ACR

Click For more on large Munsterlander gundog

I Was hoping to give you a video of sam on his first duck shoot this week but due to a few training issues in the last week, i have got a film of a similar aged labrador which is retreiving some ducks.

Even though 10-12 months is to early to be taking dogs shooting on proper shoots you can introduce them to some duck, will show you sam in the next few weeks, for more on sams training go to hunting dog training

That brings us to this weeks topic of what makes a good duck shooting gundog

Like many other types of gundogs, there really is no mystery about what that gundog is used for. A goose or duck-shooting gundog is one, in simple terms, that is used for hunting goose and duck.

Of course, there is never juts a simple explanation and I wouldn’t feel right if I didn’t get into it a bit more than simply stating the obvious. In general, a duck or goose-shooting gundog is a gundog that can work on both land and water. This is the dog that can sit with you as you wait patiently for the ducks or goose and it is a dog that does not start at the sudden gunfire that can occur during a duck hunt.

In addition, the goose/duck shooting gundog is one that doesn’t become overly excited as the birds fly overhead and takes off in pursuit of them.

With a goose/duck shooting gundog, your gundog will sit patiently in the blind or wherever you are sitting until you give the command to retrieve the birds that you have shot. The dog will then go into the water or wherever the bird landed and will retrieve it.

If a bird is crippled, but not dead, the dog will quickly retrieve it and bring it back for you to dispatch it humanely. A goose/duck shooting gundog is conditioned and trained to pick up these types of wildfowl and they are comfortable in their role on the shoot.

Above is the first part of Sam in Pre-training, to get the other 3 free videos click on Gundogs

Right Back To How To Use Your Voice to Train Gundogs
If you look at gundog training in its basic form, then voice seems very important and it also seems like the only way to show a dog what you want it to do. Thankfully, however, that is not usually the case and as most sportsmen and women will know, dogs in the field cannot always hear their handlers, especially if they are working out in front of their handler.

Voice training goes so much farther than simply giving a command and how you use your voice can help you not only train your dog but also build a sustainable bond with him, which will only benefit you when you are out in the field.

When we look at voice training, we are actually looking at the tone of voice. This is something that you should be aware of and you should think in terms of several tones.

• Conversation Tone: I have found that everyone talks to their dogs and will usually use the same tone that they use with adults in a give and take conversation. This is a relaxed tone, the tone that tells the dog that they can relax and don’t have to be on their toes and ready to obey a command. It is important that you train yourself to never use this tone when training or giving a command because it has more of a “maybe” to it and the dog may decide that maybe is good enough and he doesn’t really need to do something.

• Harsh Tone: This is a hard tone for a lot of people to pull off but a harsh tone is not a yelling tone. Actually, yelling does not accomplish anything except negatives. A harsh tone has more growl to it than pitch and it is a tone that you will use to correct the dog’s behaviors. If the puppy is chewing something, a firm growl “No,” with a gentle correction will teach the dog that they are doing something wrong. This is a step in training that can be done very early with a dog and will continue through your dog’s life.

• Command Tone: If you are going to use this tone than you really need to train yourself to follow through on it. This is the strong tone that tells the dog there will be no arguments about things. Commands should be given once and should be delivered in a clear voice that is commanding.

• Praise Tone: When your dog is doing something good, a chipper voice that is filled with pleasure is the perfect way to let your dog know that they are doing something good. It is important to mention that praise should never be bouncy and it shouldn’t make the dog break from a command. If a dog is sitting and holding and you praise him for holding, “Good dog!” it shouldn’t be done in a manner that makes him jump up and break the hold. Instead, he should remain in position and only a small tail wag is evidence that the dog has heard the praise.

• Play Tone: The last tone is the tone that you can lavish praise or play with your dog with and should never be done during a training session. It can be done once training is done and it gives your dog permission to have a little fun after a hard training session.

As you can see, each tone has its set time to use and it can go a long way to training your dog. Not only does it make it clear to your dog what he needs to know but it also alerts your dog to when he needs to focus and when he doesn’t.

If you want to know more on training your Gundogs using your voice or have a new dog to train you may be interested in our weekly video training course which will be starting within the next 3-4 weeks, click here gundog training to register your interest and get 4 pretraining videos for free,

If you have already registered, sorry for the delay we are nearly there

Ron Likes All His Dogs In Kennel's I Kind Of Disagree

Before I begin this blog post today, I just want to start off by saying that there really is no right way or wrong way to house your gun dog. Every breed, dog and owner will have different success and opinions on where a gun dog should be kept but when it comes down to the actual statistics of success, it is usually six to one and half dozen to the other.

Basically, that being said there are a number of breeds that do not thrive in a kennelling situation and you will find that I mention this in all the breed profiles that you will find throughout this site. In addition, every trainer will feel differently about housing issues but regardless of popular opinion, there are many pros and cons to keeping your gundog outside and I would like to address those today.

The Pros of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Like everything, there are always a number of pros that will come into play when you make your decision on housing your hunting dog and it is very important to look at them. Many trainers feel that the pros far outweigh the cons and often feel that housing a gundog inside will not only affect their training but will also destroy any potential to do so. That belief, in itself, is a good reason why you should kennel outside but it isn’t the only reason.

The gundog’s training is more controlled: This is one of the major pros of keeping your gundog in a kennel. When a gundog lives inside there are many bad habits that can occur. First, you are constantly training your dog and sometimes those lessons are very negative.

Since the gundog is given free reign of a house, he is less likely to listen when told to do something such as sit in place. Also, he is more likely to get into things that capitalize on his natural instincts. If he gets into something that would bring a correction, it can inadvertently teach him to ignore his natural hunting instincts.

A dog that is kept in a kennel is not constantly learning or capitalizing on negative behaviors and you can really say when and what he is learning or being trained to do.

The gundog has his own space: Something that is another pro is that the gundog has his own space outside. This is his room where he goes when training is over and he can take a break. It also provides a strong split from work and rest and your dog will know that he is going to be working the minute you open up the kennel door.

The gundog is eager to train: One behavior that most trainers have seen with their hunting dogs is the fact that they are always very eager to train. When their owners come up to the kennel, they know that now is the time to get out and get active. They are very excited to get to work and receive praise for all of their hard work.

In addition, training is a great way to break up some of the boredom the dog will feel in the kennel. This means that training, and hunting, is fun for the dog and he will usually be much easier to handle when you take him out since he is striving for his rewards and for a nice outlet for his energy.

The Cons of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Since I have mentioned the pros of keeping your gundog outside, it is only appropriate that I go over a few of the cons that can occur when you house your gundog outside.

The gundog is not well socialized: Although this is not the case with all kennel raised gundogs, it can be very easily since socializing is often overlooked by all dog owners, regardless of how their dog is used.

A gundog that is kept outside may not have much opportunity to learn about interacting with other people and animals and may become aggressive or timid when they are around anyone other than their owner and trainer.

The gundog may not bond: Again, another thing that may or may not happen but since a gundog is not interacting on a regular basis with their owners; they may not have as strong of a connection to them. If an owner takes the time to interact with his dog several times per day, then this bond will be built but if interaction is minimal, then the bond may not develop and you won’t have a dog that performs to his best potential.

The gundog may have behavioral problems: Remember, a kennel is a dog’s room and if you keep your gundog outside, he may become used to being king of that kennel. This can lead to dominance issues during training and it can also lead to territorial aggression.

In addition, gundogs that are kept outside, especially if it is a breed that is not suited for it, may begin to exhibit separation anxiety and will become destructive, may dig and will often bark, which can be a nuisance to both you and your neighbors. Lastly, the gundog may not housetrain completely and this can be a problem if you need to have him inside for any reason.

Even with the pros and cons, housing your dog is up to the individual owner and trainer and it is possible to utilize both your house and an outdoor kennel so that your gundog is given the best of both worlds with all the advantages.

To find out more on Rond Training methods Visit Amazon and get yourself a copy of the DVD

For The UK Click UK Gundog DVD

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I Had a Harder Problem Than Most As Charlie Was a Rescue Dog

Every person who has ever brought home a small puppy has been faced with the same problem, naming him. Some people have a name chosen long before they find the puppy, while others will simply sleep on it but in the end the puppy is named and officially becomes a part of the family. I had a even harder job with Charlie asd he had a name when i got him, but the rescue kennel never tells you what it is.
While the goal is to have your gundog become a part of your family, choosing a name for your hunting dog or dogs can be a bit more involved than simply assigning a name. There are a number of factors that should come into play and you should really take the time to think about them before you choose a name.

When it comes to names, there are actually two different names that you are going to want to think about; the call name and the registered name. Generally, when you purchase a hunting dog, many people will purchase from registered hunting dogs. This means that they are trying to find the best dogs they can and they will also be registering their dogs with the local kennel club.

While a registered name can be just about anything, there are a few things you should consider. First and foremost is how that name is going to sound. Will you be embarrassed by it or proud to have a dog by that name? If the dog is only going to be used for hunting and nothing else, then the name isn’t going to matter but if you are going to be training your dog in field trials or you are going to be breeding your hunting dog, then you will want a strong name that you don’t mind having associated with your kennel.

One common practice for hunting dogs is to use part of the dam’s or sire’s registered name for the puppy’s registered name. Generally, a female will have her dam’s or other females in her pedigree, name or combination of the name. For males, it would be the sire’s or subsequent males in the pedigree. Take one or two names from the parents and combine them with a name that you like. This will usually create an excellent registered name and then you can forget about it until it is time for breeding or assigning a title to your hunting dog.

One last thing about registered names, it doesn’t have to match or even have anything to do with your call name. You can have a registered dog called Turner’s Savage Hunter and his call name could simply be Joe; the registered name is for identifying your dog in a large kennel but the call name is something that will really show his personality.

Now that we have looked at the registered name, let’s look at the call names. As I have already said, this is the name that will really define the dog’s personality and will give the dog character. This is the name that you will use both in the field and in the house so there are a few points that you will want to consider before choosing your name.

First, never choose a name from a Hunting Dog Name list, unless it is one you can see using. While these lists are fun to look at, not all of them really take into consideration what a dog’s name should be like in the field. They are purely for looks, sort of speaking, and usually they don’t serve as a good functioning name.

Second, find a name that you like and one that you won’t have a problem saying in front of people. While naming the dog, Nimrod, may appease your interest in ancient mythology, it might be a bit embarrassing to say in a group of other hunters.

Third, make sure the name only has one or two syllables. This makes saying the name much easier on the field and it is more likely to roll off the tongue much easier. A name that is more advanced with three or more syllables takes too long to say and can be annoying in the field.

Lastly, make sure it doesn’t sound similar to a command that you will use in the field. Remember you will be giving those commands from a distance and if the dog is unsure whether you are saying their name or giving a command, he won’t perform to the best of his ability.

After those points, it is simply a matter of choosing a name that you enjoy and one that suits your dog. If you are naming a group of hunting dogs, make sure that each dog has a name that is distinct from the other so there is no confusion. Tom, Dick and Harry may not be the most original but there is no way that they sound the same.

It is best to get your dog use to other dogs before you thke them on a shoot

While I like to focus on gun dogs, I find that introducing your gundog to other shooting dogs is done in a similar way than you would with any other dog. It can be a stressful time for both the dog and owner and it really needs to be done correctly, especially if it is the first contact your dog has with other dogs. The first experience can set the tone for all the other introductions and can really make or break a dog.

Generally, when it comes to introducing your dog, it is always best to expect the worst case scenario from happening. Even if you know the dogs or the owners of the dogs, there is no way to know how the dogs will react to each other. In addition, unless you know the trainer, you won’t be sure how the owner will feel about the interaction or what he will stop or allow to happen.

For this reason, you should always make sure that all the dogs are leashed before you start the introduction. While the dogs may be working together off lead, the initial introduction should be done in as controlled a situation as possible. If it is possible, I would recommend making the introduction before you begin hunting together. This gives you a bit more of an idea of how they will work together and will alleviate a lot of the worries you will have, especially when you are hunting with live rounds.

Start by bringing the dogs together on their leads but make sure there is a space between them. Start with 10 feet and watch both dogs to identify any signs of aggression on either side. Make sure to stay relaxed since your anxiety can trigger some forms of aggression in your dog. Also check with the other owner on how their dog is doing since they will know him much better than you do.

If there are no signs of aggression, it is time to shorten the distance. Place the dog in a “sit” and then have the other dog walk past her. Make sure that he never comes closer than the half the original distance. Once the dog has passed, repeat this with your dog walking past the other dog while he sits. Repeat several times and check for any aggression on either dog’s part.

When they can handle this, you can start moving towards each other head on. This can trigger some aggression so be very careful not to come too close to each other. Once they are comfortable, have the dogs sit about 3 feet from each other. Praise them for their good behavior and then gradually shorten the distance until they are able to greet each other by sitting and sniffing.

Each time you shorten the distance, take the time to allow them to adjust to the new closeness before moving closer again.

Once they have greeted each time, simply sit back and relax. Don’t let them off lead but give them more freedom in increments. First they can sniff faces, then they can start to sniff the body, then they can get closer and slowly start to interact in other ways.

When they don’t have any aggression indicators, and they are familiar with each other, you can begin working them together but it is important to still focus on the dogs and make sure that some aggression doesn’t occur when you are working them.

Be sure to read other posts on my blog, especally on breed type to understand more how they get on

I Just adore Young Gundog Puppies

In an early post, I have talked about how performing a health check on a puppy and I looked at things to look for when you are purchasing a puppy. Today, I would like to talk about how to actually select a gundog puppy to ensure that you have a greater chance of choosing the best possible puppy from the litter.

Before I get into those points, however, I would like to mention a few things. First and foremost, when you are deciding on a puppy it is important that you really decide on a breed and that you know the breed. While I offer a lot of information about dog breeds here, I always stress the importance of meeting a breed in person and seeing it in action. The reason for this is because some breeds look amazing on paper but in person, you might find that you clash with the breed.

Once you have researched and chosen your breed, it is time to start looking for a breeder. My general rule of thumb is that choosing a good gundog puppy will take about 6 to 12 months from start to finish.

Depending on your breed, you might find yourself on a long waiting list and it can take over a year to get a puppy in your preferred breed from your preferred breeder, especially if it is a rare breed, so be prepared to wait.

When you are looking for a breeder there are a few things to be aware of.

1. Make sure the breeder is breeding field dogs. Some breeds have seen a branch off from their original use and it is not uncommon to find a breeder that only breeds show quality dogs. This isn’t to say that the show quality can’t be used in the field but many hunters have found that they get better gundog puppies when they purchase from field bred dogs.

2. All the health clearances should be done. This means hips, elbows and eyes should be checked and cleared and a health check should be done prior to breeding. If the breeder doesn’t do clearances, then run; don’t walk, away from that breeder.

3. Find a breeder that is knowledgeable. Since you are looking for a gundog puppy, the best way to find one is to find a breeder that is knowledgeable in that area. Try to find one that actually hunts or, at the very least, competes in various field or hunt competitions. These are the breeders that are going to answer your questions and they will also lay the foundation in the puppies to ensure they create amazing gundogs.

4. Choose the picky breeder. Most people, when they meet a picky breeder, often feel very frustrated by the process. They often wonder why they need to fill in questionnaires and why they need to give a pint of blood as well, okay, I might be exaggerating on the latter but if your breeder isn’t picky, then they probably aren’t going to invest that much into their puppies to begin with.

Once you have a breeder and the litter is on the ground, it will be time to choose your puppy. To do this, you will want to first assess what you want in your gundog. Do you want it to be independent? Do you want it to be a dominant with other dogs? When you know the type of dog you want, you can get a clearer idea of the puppy you should choose. Even if you aren’t sure, there are few tips below that will help you choose a puppy.

1. Look for balance: When you go to see the puppies, take the time to observe them in motion. Look for the dog that has good proportion and has fairly good balance for its age. Generally, if you wait until the puppies are about 7 weeks old, you can get a good idea of how it will look as an adult. Find the puppy that has the closest attributes to what you are looking for.

2. Watch the puppies interact: It is often surprising to many people that puppies as young as 6 weeks old have their own hierarchy but it is true. There are more dominant dogs in the litter and more submissive. Watch the puppies playing together and determine how the hierarchy is arranged. From there you can choose a dog according to what you are looking for.

3. Determine their interest: Some gundog breeders will expose their puppies to birds before they leave their home but try to assess how the puppies react to things like that. Bring a toy or dummy and toss it into the litter, make sure it is off to the side. Watch the puppies that show an interest in it since these are usually the puppies that have more hunting instincts.

4. Check to see if they are healthy: Lastly, when you have narrowed your gundog puppy down to one or two puppies, do a health check. You can follow our health check or you can ask your vet for a sample health check.

Choosing a gundog puppy can be fairly easy and it is important to make the final decision based on everything I mentioned as well as your gut instinct. If for any reason a puppy just doesn’t sit well with you, then don’t purchase it. In addition, make sure you really take the advice of the breeder since they will often know the puppies much better than you can in one visit and will point you in the direction of the best dog.

At The Moment Me And Ron Are Filming A Video For Training Your Gundog Puppy From Start To Finish, For More Info

Click Here Gundog Training

2 Red Vizsla Out Hunting

The Vizsla, which is also known as the Hungarian Pointer or Hungarian Vizsla, is a versatile hunting dog that can be distinguished by its slender build and short smooth coat that ranges in color from pale yellow to dark mahogany, with golden rust being the preferred color.

The Vizsla is an ancient hunting dog and is believed to have originated in the area of Hungary. They have been prized hunting dogs for centuries and one look at a Vizsla in the field is enough to understand why. These dogs are idea for pointing but they have proven their worth as both flushing dogs and retrievers.

Generally, the Vizsla is a very active dog. They thrive when they have a job to do and work even better when they are with their family. They are not the best breed to have in apartments and they are also not the best breed to be used as kennel dogs. They need human interaction and socialization and can easily become very timid and shy if they do not have that.

In addition, the Vizsla is not a breed for the novice dog owner. They need ample training and socialization and they can be high strung without the proper guidance. When they do have that guidance, they can be a joy to have around and you can find them, more often than not, at the feet of their owner, whether they are at home or in the field; that is, unless there is a job to do.

Pro’s and con’s of owning a Vizsla.

The Vizsla is an old breed of gundog that is happy in both the field and at home. They are full of energy and have proven to those who own them that they can apply that energy constructively in the field. They are a versatile breed that can be at home in a wide range of roles on the field but they are not a breed for everyone, especially a novice dog owner. This is a breed that requires a lot of training, patience and socialization but the effort always pays off when you finally see your Vizsla in the field.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Vizsla breed and they have been cherished as a versatile working dog. They are definitely a dog to take notice of in the field and are sure to impress even the most seasoned hunter.

• They are a versatile gundog that can be used for flushing, pointing and retrieving a wide range of prey, not just waterfowl or upland birds.
• They do well with many other pets and can thrive in a multi-dog family.
• They can do well as family dogs but are better suited for homes with older children due to their energy level and rambunctiousness.
• While the Vizsla is considered to be a regular shedder, they are actually very easy to groom and have a low doggy smell to their skin, which means they only need an occasional bath.
• The breed is considered to be a fairly hardy breed.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Vizsla.

• They are very energetic and require about 60 minutes of exercise every day.
• Vizslas need to be properly socialized. If they aren’t, they can be very timid and this can be lead to other behavioral problems.
• They are not recommended for first time owners since they can be difficult to train and they can be stubborn.
• They are not the ideal dog for an apartment since they have high energy levels and they really need a well fenced area to run in.
• Vizslas are often coined “Velcro dogs” and prefer to be with their owners at all times. They are not the best dog for kennels and they will suffer from separation anxiety if they are left alone for long periods of time.
• Some Vizsla can be very high strung so it is very important to see the parents before purchasing.
• Vizslas are considered to be chewers so a lot of effort will need to be made to keep them from chewing items around the house.

Health Issues:

The Vizsla is a very healthy breed and has few diseases and disorders that are considered to be hereditary. That being said, hip dysplasia is seeing an increase in the breed, as are a number of other diseases. To make it a bit easier for you, we have listed all of the diseases that have been seen in the breed, although they are at lower occurrences than in other breeds. To prevent these diseases, it is important that you make sure that all health checks have been done on the parents and that the breeder is using healthy breeding stock. If you doubt at any time that they are, look for a new breeder.

• Hip Dysplasia
• Hemophilia A
• Lymphosarcoma
• Cataracts
• Allergies
• Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)
• Hemangiosarcoma
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy
• Epilepsy

Height & Weight:

The Vizsla is a medium sized hunting dog that should be light in build and should never be overweight. In fact, a lot of emphasis is placed on the dog having a brawny appearance and they should be very sinewy as well. In addition to build, height is also very important with the Vizsla and the ideal specimen should be no taller or shorter than 1.5 inches outside the breed standard, with breed standard being the best.

The size of a Vizsla Gundog is:

Males: 22 to 24 inches (56 to 61 cm) tall and 45 to 60 pounds (20 to 27 kg)
Females: 21 to 23 inches (53 to 58 cm) tall and 40 to 55 pounds (18 to 25 kg)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

When it comes to grooming, the Vizsla is actually a very easy dog to tend to. This is because of their close lying, short coat that is also very dense and smooth. The coat does not pick up a lot of debris in the field, so they require only minimal brushings because of it.

Still, a Vizsla is an average shedder so they will need to be brushed about once a week to keep dead hair to a minimum. Also, it is important to keep the dog clean by wiping it down with a damp cloth on a weekly basis. Generally, the Vizsla does not require regular bathing and can be washed once or twice a year.

The last step for grooming a Vizsla is to check the ears and keep them clean of any build-up or debris and to keep the nails trimmed to prevent splitting or tearing.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 14 years

History:

While the Vizsla is not a well known breed, it is not a new breed. In fact, it is one of the oldest breeds alive today and it can be traced back to about the 10th Century AD or even earlier. There is actually no clear history on the breed but we do know that the breed is descended from the hunting dog that was used by the Magyar, who settled in and around Hungary.

In addition, we know that the Vizsla was a favorite breed of dog for Hungarian nobility, who cherished the dogs for their ability to hunt. The breed proved to many that they were a versatile hunting dog that could flush out many types of prey from game birds to wild boar. They could also be trained to move quietly towards quarry and later it was established that the breed could also point and retrieve prey.

Despite their versatility, the Vizsla began to dwindle in number and was almost wiped out by both world wars. If it wasn’t for the dedication of a handful of breeders, the Vizsla would have been lost before the end of World War II.
Luckily the breed survived, and the first Vizsla to be imported into the United States was in the 1950’s. The Vizsla was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1960 and today, while it is still a rare breed, it has been recognized as a versatile hunting and working dog and has been used as both hunting and service dogs.
Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

We Are Training Sam Each week at Present

As I have mentioned in an earlier post, there are so many terms that a new hunter or sports person needs to learn and at times it can be overwhelming. The all round gun dog is another term that most people starting out are unaware of and it is definitely one that you should know before you purchase your first gundog puppy.

Generally, when you choose a new puppy or even a breed of dog, you will look for a gundog that can do specific things. If you are interested in training the retriever, then you will choose a breed that retrieves and if you want a dog that will point, than a pointing breed is the obvious choice.

While that way of choosing a dog can take you a long way, one of the most important questions that you can ask yourself is, what do I want to hunt? Some breeds are good for hunting water fowl, some are good for upland game, and others are excellent for hunting predators such as raccoons and opossums. If your answer is that you want a dog that will hunt all of those thigns, then what you want is an All Round gun dog.

But what is an all round gundog?

It is simple. It is a versatile hunting dog that can be used to hunt a range of prey from birds to predators. These dogs can function in a range of roles in the field and for this reason; they are equipped to work with their handler regardless of the quarry.

All round gun dogs are dogs that can track prey, point at it and when the time comes, they can retrieve it for their handler. In addition, these dogs are adept at working on both land and water and do equally well in both situations. They can usually handle a large range of terrain, whether it is rough or not, and they have the energy to work throughout the hunting trip.

While all breeds have the potential to be an all round gun dog, it does not a large amount of training and there are some breeds that are better suited to being all round gun dogs than others. Some excellent all round gun dog breeds are Brittany, German Wirehaired Pointer and the Boykin Spaniel

But I think most gundog experts will agree that a Labrador Retriever takes some beating, at present we are training sam to be a all round gundog each week we film Ron putting him through his paces and filming each session

To find out more on this training go to Weekly Gundog Training

A Irish Setter In The Hunting Field

If anyone has ever asked you about an Irish Setter, most people are able to bring to mind the red dog with the beautiful coat. They are known for their beauty, with their distinct traits that mark each gender of the dog, males looking masculine and females looking delicate and feminine. They do very well in the conformation ring and are a favorite for many breeders.

Despite their beauty, the Irish Setter is an excellent hunting dog that is used to “set” prey. They can be versatile in the field and since the breed has been used for two purposes, there is a slight difference between field bred and show bred Irish Setters.
That being said, both of them are very warm and loving dogs that make excellent family companions. They are the eternal puppy and will take a significant amount of time to mature but they are usually a joy to be around. They can be difficult to train, since they lose interest in a task easily but if they find it interesting and fun, they will quickly pick up whatever you are training.
However, in the end, there is little doubt that this is an amazing dog to both watch and work in the field.

Pro’s and con’s of owning a Flat Coated Retriever.

Irish Setters are a breed of dog that was originally developed in Ireland and were used primarily as hunting dogs used to “set” the quarry and have proven that they can be used both in the field and out of it. They make excellent therapy dogs and have been used in a variety of roles. They can be a bit high strung and have a lot of energy but with proper training and socialization, they can be an excellent hunting dog and family companion.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Irish Setter, one of them being their beauty and grace both in the field and in the show ring. They are excellent family dogs that can be a joy to have in a home. Below are some of the pros associated with the Irish Setter.

• Irish Setters are a beautiful breed of dog that can be found in both the field and many other roles. This makes it a very versatile dog that can be used for a variety of purposes.
• They are very good with children and make excellent family dogs.
• They usually do very well with other pets in the home but it is important to socialize them.
• They are considered to be moderate shedders.
• Irish Setters are very inquisitive and have a personality that makes them a joy to be around.
• They love being companions and will be happy sharing their time with those they love. This is not an independent breed that simply shares your house.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase an Irish Setter. The breed has a number of serious health issues, listed in the section below, and they have an energy does not work for everyone.

• Irish Setters are not the ideal breed for apartments. They do much better in a home with a large fenced yard.
• They can be very high strung so it is important to meet the parents before selecting a puppy to alleviate some of the risks of having a high strung dog yourself.
• Socialization is very important with the Irish Setter.
• Training can be very difficult with the Irish Setter since they are often distracted by things around them. To make training easy, it should be interesting and kept in short bursts that doesn’t try your dog’s focus.
• They are very close to their family and are not a breed that can live outdoors or in kennels.
• They can suffer from separation anxiety if they are left alone for long periods of time.
• They have a number of serious health problems so it is important to find a reputable breeder for your puppy.
• Irish Setters have a high amount of energy and will require a lot of exercise, about 30 to 60 minutes per day.
• They need to be groomed on a regular basis.
• They are usually an eternal puppy and can be very active throughout their life. Don’t expect your Irish Setter to mature until they are older than 2.

Health Issues:

Although there are a number of health problems in this breed, it is important to note that they can live a very healthy life if effort is made in finding the best Irish Setter breeder. Make sure that all health checks have been done on the parents and that the breeder is using healthy breeding stock. If you doubt at any time that they are, look for a new breeder.

• Hip Dysplasia
• Elbow Dysplasia
• Gastric Torsion (also known as bloat)
• Hypothyroidism
• Canine Leukocyte (CAD)
• Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)
• Epilepsy
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)
• Hemophilia A
• Panosteitis
• Hyperadrenocorticism
• Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy (HOD)
• Megaesophagus

Height & Weight:

The Irish Setter is a beautiful dog that is known for their grace and athleticism, which is seen in both their proportions and shape. They are known for their balanced structure and long, lean head that gives a beautiful line to the dog. While size is not important with this breed, they should have a perfect balance to their look and they should be slightly longer than they are tall.

The size of an Irish Setter is:

Males: 27 inches (69 cm) tall and up to 70 pounds (32 kg)
Females: 25 inches (64 cm) tall and up to 60 pounds (27 kg)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

One of the most noticeable quality of the Irish Setter is their beautiful, silky coat that is of moderate length with feathering at the back of the legs; foreleg and thigh, and ears. The coat also has impressive fringing on the tail, which tapers down the length, the belly, sternum, chest and brisket. There is little doubt that the rich chestnut red to mahogany coat is something that will require a bit of work to keep healthy.

Surprisingly, despite the coat, the Irish Setter is considered to be a moderate shedder, with only a few times during the year when they become a regular to heavy shedder. Even with the lower shed rate, the coat should be brushed on a daily basis to keep it free of tangles and debris. It is very important to brush out the coat after any field work to remove any debris.

While the Irish Setter needs to be brushed on a regular basis, they do not need to be bathed on a frequent basis. They have a lower doggy smell than some breeds and will only require one or two baths per month to keep them clean and healthy.

After the coat, it is very important to really care for the Irish Setter’s feet. Hairs between the toes should be kept short to keep debris from gathering there. Make sure that you check the dog’s feet after any field work to remove any trapped burrs. Also keep the nails trimmed to ensure that they do not split.

Lastly, keep the ears clean and make sure you remove any debris, dirt or water to prevent ear infections from occurring since this is very common in breeds with pendulous ears.

Life Expectancy: 11 to 15 years

History:

As the name implies, the Irish Setter originated in Ireland and can be dated back to about the 18th century. It was used originally as a hunting dog and is believed to be descended from a variety of breeds such as pointers, other setter breeds and spaniels.

Originally, the breed had a coloring of red and white but the first full red setter was born in the early 19th century. It was this dog that gained popularity and the solid color became the preferred coloring in Irish Setters from that time on.

Although the breed did begin to gain popularity in the mid-1800’s, it wasn’t known as the Irish Setter until much later. Originally, it was known as either “Red Spaniel,” or the “Modder Rhu,” which means “Red Dogs” in Gaelic.

Despite the confusion over the name, the Irish Setter thrived in Ireland and it quickly gained popularity in both England and the United States. In fact, the first Irish Setter to be imported into the United States in the late 1800’s and is one of the first breeds to be recognized by the AKC.
Although the Irish Setter was used for hunting for much of its history, many breeders realized the potential the breed had in the show ring and they became a very popular breed for conformation. This has led to there being two types of Irish Setters; field and show Irish Setters, and while there is a slight difference between them, both can shine in the field.
Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, CCR, APRI, ACR