Best not Try This In The Winter, But Once They Can Swim It Looks Fun

When you first introduce your gundog to water, it can be a joy and a frustration.  You have a dog that should in all intense and purposes love the water.  You are expecting your dog to jump right in and start swimming but then, when you finally get out to the water; your dog not only refuses to go in but also behaves as though you are trying to dip him in acid.

This is where the frustration can come from.  You want your dog to enjoy himself but you also want him to enjoy himself in the water.  Still, some gundogs are just not willing to get into the water and this can put many of them at risk for a negative experience.  Some owners, especially novice owners, will simply place their puppy in water, regardless of their dog’s stress.  This should never be done since it has the potential to ruin your gundog.

Instead, introducing your gundog takes the same patience and fortitude that introducing your gundog to anything in their training.  If they don’t go in the first time, just try again and again until they go into the water.

Even with that thought in mind, there are a number of ways that you can introduce your gundog to water to make it both enjoyable and easy.

Use an older dog.

If you can, bring along an older dog that loves water.  This will give your young gundog someone to learn from. When the older dog goes in and is enjoying himself, your younger one will begin to wander in simply to be with the older dog.  J

Start in a lake or other slow moving (still) water

Starting in moving water can be a big mistake for several reasons. First, the gundog puppy could be pulled under by a strong current or taken too far downstream.  Safety is important when introducing your gundog to water.

Second, the gundog puppy may be more hesitant about entering water that is moving. This can create a negative experience from the start and will make other trips to water much harder.

Lastly, your gundog puppy may become distracted by the noise of the water and will have more difficulty focusing on you and also on what you are trying to do.

Make it a game

The last tip that I have for introducing the gundog puppy to water is to make it fun and make it a game.  When you puppy first gets to the water, throw out a dummy for him to retrieve, if he does retrieve, a few inches from the shoreline.  Your puppy will only get his feet wet but if he wants the dummy, he will have to touch the water.

When he is comfortable retrieving from a few inches away, throw the dummy a little further.  Go slow with this process and make sure that your puppy is comfortable with the new depth. Before you know it, your gundog puppy will be more than happy to dive in after anything you throw out.

It is important when you do introduce your gundog to water that you never correct or punish him for not going in the water. This is a different feel, smell and overall experience for your dog so let him dictate the length of time it takes.  If you do, you will be overjoyed with the result.

For a overview of training why not try our beginners guide to gundog dvd avaliable at amazon.com and amazon.co.uk

This is a quick video showing some typical Large Munsterlander Gundog

If one was looking for a breed of dog that was built to work, then one doesn’t have to look farther than this athletic dog that is covered in an attractive coat of mottled black and white. The Large Munsterlander gundog is a hard working gundog breed that has all the enthusiasm that one would expect from a hunting dog.

The breed is courageous and is known for their ability to be versatile in the field. They are very intelligent and combined with their eagerness to please, they are very quick to learn and with the proper guidance will stay on course when they are in the field.

When they are at home, they are a loving pet and do better if they can live in the home with their owners. In addition, they thrive when they have ample time with their family and can suffer from separation anxiety if they are left too long. They do very well with other dogs and with children but they are not suited for homes with small pets.

In addition, they are also not suited for apartment life and will do much better if they have an active family that is willing to give it the attention and exercise the breed needs.

Pro’s and con’s of owning an Large Munsterlander

The Large Munsterlander is a versatile gundog that seems to be the perfect breed for both home and field. They are happy to work in a number of tasks and usually seem happiest when they are at work. When they aren’t working, they make excellent family dogs and they are very loyal to their owners. Unfortunately, they can be overly clingy and if they are not properly exercised or stimulated, they can be very destructive. The Large Munsterlander is an active dog that is not suited for everyone and it is important to be aware of their pros and cons before you purchase one.

The Pro’s

One look at the Large Munsterlander and you can see that it is a beautiful breed with its unique black and white mottled coat and large dark eyes. This is an intelligent breed that has shown its worth in the field as a versatile gundog that can be used in a variety of ways including pointing, retrieving and tracking.

• They are a rare breed and most are bred for gundog work

• They are very intelligent and are usually very eager to please. This makes them easier to train.

• They are very sociable and do well in homes with other dogs.

• The Large Munsterlander is a gentle breed and they do very well with children.

• They are a hard working breed.

The Con’s

The Large Munsterlander has proved too many sportsmen that they are an amazing breed of dog that is versatile in the field and at home but they are not a breed for everyone. This is an active breed that prefers family life to kennel and they may not be suitable for everyone.

• They can be very vocal dogs.

• They are a rare breed of dog so the waiting lists can be quite long and they can be expensive. In addition, many breeders only sell to hunting families.

• The Large Munsterlander is an average shedder with periods in the year where they are high shedders.

• They require a fair amount of grooming.

• They are not suited for homes that have small animals since they do have a strong prey drive.

• The Large Munsterlander is not suited for kennel life and will become destructive if they are separated from their family for long periods of time.

• They are active dogs that require at least 60 minutes of exercise per day, sometimes more.

• They are not suited for apartments and do much better in a home with a large fenced yard.

• They can be very mouthy and are prone to nipping and chewing.

Health Issues:

The Large Munsterlander is a very healthy breed and as of now, many studies are being put forward to test the health issues in the breeds. As it stands, there are very few health problems but it is important to purchase from a reputable breeder that has properly screened their dogs before breeding to insure that the breed remains healthy. Some issues that are seen in the Large Munsterlander are:

• Hip Dysplasia

• Eye Problems

Height & Weight:

The Large Munsterlander is a medium sized dog that has the appearance of a well balanced athletic breed. They are well muscled with well sprung ribs, slightly tucked up abdomen and a square body that is the same length as it is high. They should be elegant in appearance with enough muscle to appear solid but not bulky.

The size of a Large Munsterlander is:

Males: 24 to 26 inches (60 to 65 cm) tall

Females: 23 to 25 inches (58 to 63 cm) tall

Weight for both the male and female Large Munsterlander should be 50 to 70 pounds (23 to 32 kg.)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

The Large Munsterlander’s grooming needs are actually different between male and female and it usually is because of the length of the coat. Females have a shorter coat than males and because of this, the female’s only need to be brushed once or twice a week to keep the fur free of any debris, mats and dead hairs. Males, on the other hand, require a brushing either daily or every other day.

The breed on the whole, is considered to be an average shedder but there are periods in the year when they are heavy shedders. During this time, the dog should be brushed frequently to keep the amount of hair to a minimal.

Bathing should only be done when the dog needs it and can be done on a monthly or bi-monthly basis, although some dogs can be bathed less and some need to be bathed more. Care should be taken of the ears and they should be kept clean and dry to prevent ear infections.

Nails should be kept trimmed and any excess hair should be trimmed from between the toes.

Life Expectancy: 12 to 13 years

History:

The Large Munsterlander can trace its origins back to Germany and is believed to have been developed in Munster, Germany. Although the breed is still fairly young, it is believed to be traced back to the early 1800’s but it was considered to be a color variation of the German Longhaired Pointer.

It wasn’t until the early 1900’s that the Large Munsterlander was recognized for what it really was, a versatile hunting dog that was separate from the German Longhaired Pointer. The Large Munsterlander club was formed in 1919 and the breed was imported to the United States in 1966 where it has continued to grow slowly in popularity.

Grouping:

Gun Dog

Recognition:

LMCNA, FCI, KCGB, NKC, NZKC, CKC, ANKC, APRI, ACR

Click For more on large Munsterlander gundog

I Was hoping to give you a video of sam on his first duck shoot this week but due to a few training issues in the last week, i have got a film of a similar aged labrador which is retreiving some ducks.

Even though 10-12 months is to early to be taking dogs shooting on proper shoots you can introduce them to some duck, will show you sam in the next few weeks, for more on sams training go to hunting dog training

That brings us to this weeks topic of what makes a good duck shooting gundog

Like many other types of gundogs, there really is no mystery about what that gundog is used for. A goose or duck-shooting gundog is one, in simple terms, that is used for hunting goose and duck.

Of course, there is never juts a simple explanation and I wouldn’t feel right if I didn’t get into it a bit more than simply stating the obvious. In general, a duck or goose-shooting gundog is a gundog that can work on both land and water. This is the dog that can sit with you as you wait patiently for the ducks or goose and it is a dog that does not start at the sudden gunfire that can occur during a duck hunt.

In addition, the goose/duck shooting gundog is one that doesn’t become overly excited as the birds fly overhead and takes off in pursuit of them.

With a goose/duck shooting gundog, your gundog will sit patiently in the blind or wherever you are sitting until you give the command to retrieve the birds that you have shot. The dog will then go into the water or wherever the bird landed and will retrieve it.

If a bird is crippled, but not dead, the dog will quickly retrieve it and bring it back for you to dispatch it humanely. A goose/duck shooting gundog is conditioned and trained to pick up these types of wildfowl and they are comfortable in their role on the shoot.

Above is the first part of Sam in Pre-training, to get the other 3 free videos click on Gundogs

Right Back To How To Use Your Voice to Train Gundogs
If you look at gundog training in its basic form, then voice seems very important and it also seems like the only way to show a dog what you want it to do. Thankfully, however, that is not usually the case and as most sportsmen and women will know, dogs in the field cannot always hear their handlers, especially if they are working out in front of their handler.

Voice training goes so much farther than simply giving a command and how you use your voice can help you not only train your dog but also build a sustainable bond with him, which will only benefit you when you are out in the field.

When we look at voice training, we are actually looking at the tone of voice. This is something that you should be aware of and you should think in terms of several tones.

• Conversation Tone: I have found that everyone talks to their dogs and will usually use the same tone that they use with adults in a give and take conversation. This is a relaxed tone, the tone that tells the dog that they can relax and don’t have to be on their toes and ready to obey a command. It is important that you train yourself to never use this tone when training or giving a command because it has more of a “maybe” to it and the dog may decide that maybe is good enough and he doesn’t really need to do something.

• Harsh Tone: This is a hard tone for a lot of people to pull off but a harsh tone is not a yelling tone. Actually, yelling does not accomplish anything except negatives. A harsh tone has more growl to it than pitch and it is a tone that you will use to correct the dog’s behaviors. If the puppy is chewing something, a firm growl “No,” with a gentle correction will teach the dog that they are doing something wrong. This is a step in training that can be done very early with a dog and will continue through your dog’s life.

• Command Tone: If you are going to use this tone than you really need to train yourself to follow through on it. This is the strong tone that tells the dog there will be no arguments about things. Commands should be given once and should be delivered in a clear voice that is commanding.

• Praise Tone: When your dog is doing something good, a chipper voice that is filled with pleasure is the perfect way to let your dog know that they are doing something good. It is important to mention that praise should never be bouncy and it shouldn’t make the dog break from a command. If a dog is sitting and holding and you praise him for holding, “Good dog!” it shouldn’t be done in a manner that makes him jump up and break the hold. Instead, he should remain in position and only a small tail wag is evidence that the dog has heard the praise.

• Play Tone: The last tone is the tone that you can lavish praise or play with your dog with and should never be done during a training session. It can be done once training is done and it gives your dog permission to have a little fun after a hard training session.

As you can see, each tone has its set time to use and it can go a long way to training your dog. Not only does it make it clear to your dog what he needs to know but it also alerts your dog to when he needs to focus and when he doesn’t.

If you want to know more on training your Gundogs using your voice or have a new dog to train you may be interested in our weekly video training course which will be starting within the next 3-4 weeks, click here gundog training to register your interest and get 4 pretraining videos for free,

If you have already registered, sorry for the delay we are nearly there

You may go and buy a Retriever if you watch video above

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a medium sized breed of dog with an interesting look that consists of a broad head and tan to dark brown or red coat that has a slight wave to it. They are beautiful dogs that really exhibit the athletic build that one looks for in a working breed.

In addition to this build, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an intelligent breed that thrives when it is out working. They are very affectionate to those they know but do not have the “love everyone” that so many other breeds has. Instead, they tend to be a bit more reserved and they also have a very strong will.

It is actually this strong will that really sets the Chesapeake Bay Retriever aside from other retrievers. They can be slow to learn, not because they are not intelligent, but because they are not a breed that will jump for anything. For this reason, they are not recommended for new or timid owners and they really need an owner that can be firm and patient at the same time.

Even still, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a breed that was made for retrieving on water and they have proven time and time again that they are perfect for retrieving waterfowl on any type of terrain.

Pro’s and con’s of owning an Irish Water Spaniel

If you are looking at the Chesapeake Bay Retriever because it gives you a Labrador Retriever with an unusual coat, then you should look for another breed because you would be farthest from the truth as you can be. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is an energetic breed but they tend to be more reserved and have a very strong will. They are not eager to please but they have a confidence that endears them to many owners and trainers alike. While they have many positive qualities, they also have a few that make them a poor match with many owners. It is very important to really know this breed before you purchase one.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Chesapeake Bay Retriever breed and while they are considered more uncommon today, there was a time when this breed was a preferred pet for many sportsmen and hunters. Generally, this is an active breed that works hard in the field and truly shines in water.

• They are very friendly and loving and make excellent family dogs and are usually very good with children.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers do very well in outdoor kennels and actually prefer to sleep outside.
• They have a steady temperament, although they are exuberant when young.
• While they are friendly, they are more reserved than many other retriever breeds.
• They can make excellent watchdogs since they tend to be suspicious of new people.
• They are easy to groom.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are very intelligent and will take to training quickly; however, they may not always listen since they are strong willed.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Chesapeake Bay Retriever. The breed has an active and bouncy personality that does not work for everyone.

• They are an active breed that requires at least 30 minutes of exercise per day, although, it is much better if they have closer to 60 minutes.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are average shedders.
• Although they are a retriever, they do not have the eager to please mentality of many retrievers. Instead, they can be very strong willed and need a confident owner and trainer.
• They have been known to have some territorial aggression towards other animals so it is very important to properly socialize this breed.
• They are very jumpy and tend to mature slower than other breeds.
• Chesapeake Bay Retrievers can be very mouthy and may chew objects or nip at hands.
• They can suffer from separation anxiety and will become destructive if they are bored.

Health Issues:

While the Chesapeake Bay Retriever has a number of hereditary diseases that can affect them, they do not have as many as some breeds and are considered to be fairly hardy as a sporting breed.

However, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever has had some instances of Exercise Induced Collapse where a dog’s muscles will refuse to work, thus causing a collapse in the dog. Studies are still being done on the issue and even a dog that has not been exercising can suffer from a collapse. It is important to be aware of this when you purchase a dog. It is also important to research your breeders and to make sure that they are only using dogs that have been properly screened for health problems. Some issues that are seen in the Chesapeake Bay Retriever are:

• Hip Dysplasia
• Elbow Dysplasia
• Degenerative Myelopathy
• Hypothyroidism
• Epilepsy
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy
• Cataracts
• Gastric Torsion or Bloat

Height & Weight:

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is a strong and athletic breed of dog that should have smooth lines with a rump that is the same height or slightly higher than the shoulders. This is a breed that is used to the extremes of cold temperatures and this trait can be seen in the strength and substance of the dog. It should never be too large but it should have a medium build that gives the appearance of endurance.

The size of a Chesapeake Bay Retriever is:

Males: 23 to 26 inches (58 to 66 cm) tall and 65 to 80 pounds (29 to 36 kg).
Females: 21 to 24 inches (53 to 61 cm) tall and 55 to 70 pounds (25 to 22 kg).

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog. In the Weimaraner the withers are slightly higher than the back of the dog.

Grooming:

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is actually a very easy dog to groom and they don’t need a lot of maintenance to keep them clean and tidy. While they are easy to groom, they are also average shedders so there will be periods when you have a lot of hair to remove.

When it comes to grooming, it is recommended that you brush them out once a week to remove any dead hairs or debris. Also, it is important to brush these dogs out after they have been in the field to make sure that no dirt or debris will cause mats in their fur.

With bathing, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever only needs to be bathed once or twice per year. Since this is a working breed that was designed to work in water, they have a weatherproofing oil in the hair and washing the dog will only strip this oil from their hair.

Nails should be kept trimmed and if there are any hairs between the toes, it should be trimmed as well. Also keep the dog’s ears clean and dry to avoid any ear infections.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 12 years

History:

If you are looking for a breed that has an interesting history, then you should look no farther than the Chesapeake Bay Retriever. This breed was originated in the early 1800’s and they can actually trace their heritage back to a shipwreck in 1807.

As the history, which is well documented states, a ship that was bound for England from Newfoundland Canada was shipwrecked just off the coast of Maryland. Thankfully the cargo and crew were rescued and taken into the United States.

While this may seem like a strange place to start the history, what is of more important note to dog lovers is that on board the wrecked ship were two Newfoundland puppies, a male and female, that were bound for England.

The two dogs didn’t make it to England and were instead given to two men who were shown gratitude by the shipwrecked sailors for both of their hospitality. The two men, John Mercer and Dr. James Stuart, trained the dogs for retrieving waterfowl and were delighted to have two dogs that were exceptional at it.

In fact, the two dogs were so renowned for their retrieving abilities that any offspring the two produced were sought after by local sportsmen. While the foundation dogs were the two Newfoundland puppies off the shipwreck, whose names were Sailor, the reddish brown male, and Canton, the black female, many other dogs went into creating the Chesapeake Bay Retriever as we know it today.

Generally, many of the puppies that were purchased from Sailor and Canton were bred to many other dogs, including a non-descript retriever that was commonly used in the area. In addition, it is believed that the Flat Coated Retriever, Otter Hound and Curly-Coated Retriever were introduced into the pedigree and each one offered a trait to the Chesapeake Bay Retriever.

Within only a few generations, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever was created and by the mid-1800’s, many breeds were already breeding to form. Because of this, many sportsmen strived to keep the breed from being destroyed and in the late 1800’s, the Carroll Island Gun Club created a pedigree for the Chesapeake Bay Dog.

During the last twenty years of the 1800’s, the Chesapeake Bay Retriever had several different names but in 1890, the name was finally awarded to the Chesapeake Bay Retriever and the breed club was finally formed in the 1890’s.

While the breed became popular in the early and mid 1900’s, with the decline of bird populations and sportsmen, the breed began to see a bit of a decline in the number of Chesapeake Bay Retrievers that were being produced. Thankfully, they are once again on the rise in numbers but they still remain a fairly unfamiliar breed.

Still, the breed has a large following and recently there has been a concern of the breed splitting into two separate types; show and field lines. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever became the state dog of Maryland in 1964.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, NKC, NZKC, ANKC, APRI, ACR

If you are interested in rehoming a Chesapeake Bay Retriever

My Kids would love a puppy but i always end up with a adult gundog like Charlie or my new gundog Tia (Above)

Everyone loves a puppy, even people who don’t really like dogs so it is no wonder that many people are interested in purchasing a puppy to start as a gundog than they are in purchasing an adult. While there are many advantages to purchasing an adult gundog as to purchasing a puppy, there are also several disadvantages.

Generally, many people feel that a good gundog will start training young and should be purchased as a puppy but I have seen many excellent gundogs come out of dogs purchased as adults. These are dogs, by the way, that have had no formal training in field work but they were still able to outshine the puppies that were bred and raised for field work only.

That being said, I want to look at the advantages and disadvantages of starting with an adult gundog. Like everything else to do with your dog, you will need to make the decision between whether you want to start with an adult dog or whether you want to start with a puppy. Believe it or not, this decision will greatly affect how you will approach gundog training and it may also affect the time it takes to get out for hunting, although this is not always the case.

Since I love to start on a positive note, I am going to start with the advantages of starting an adult gundog.

Advantages of Starting with an Adult Gundog:

• He may be trained completely. Depending on the dog you get, you may have a fully trained gundog on your hands which means that after a few months, until you have set up a bond with him, that you can start working him. Of course, the gundog might not be properly trained and then you will have to start at square one.
• You don’t have to housetrain. Usually this is a big bonus for starting with an adult dog. Most of them are house trained so you don’t have to deal with all the accidents in the house. If you have them outside, then you aren’t going to worry about this as much but it is still something to consider.
• Some of the potential health risks may be avoided. Since there are a number of health issues that occur before the dog reaches the age of two, purchasing an adult dog instead of a puppy may help you avoid some of the health risks. Of course, some do not appear until later in life so don’t expect to be free of all the risks.
• They can be fielded faster. Training a puppy can take a lot of time and is a lot of responsibility. Starting with a trained adult dog means that you can get out in the field much sooner than you could if you have start with a puppy.
• Basic training may be finished. If you are purchasing a dog that has not been trained for gundog training, you will probably be training a dog that has basic training. Since the building blocks are in place, you don’t really need to start with basic training and you can move on to the field training much faster.
• You avoid the puppy stage. While puppies can be very cute, they are also a lot of work and it just isn’t the housetraining that can be difficult. They are active, rambunctious and will constantly get into stuff. By purchasing an adult dog, you get to avoid that age and simply enjoy a steadier time with your dog, at least most of the time.

Disadvantages of Starting with an Adult Gundog:

• You may not bond with the dog. This can be one of the biggest disadvantages of starting with an adult dog since a lot of bonding takes place during the puppy stage. While you can still create a bond with an older dog, it may not be as strong as one that you have nurtured throughout your dog’s life.
• The dog may be improperly trained. Training is not always done correctly and when you purchase an older dog, you run the risk of all forms of training not being properly established. This is across the board with basic training, housetraining, and finally, field training.
• You might not know the pedigree. If you are purchasing a finished gundog, then chances are this won’t be a problem but if you are adopting a gundog breed from a shelter, there is no way to know the pedigree or if it came from field lines. This might not matter in the training, but then again, it may.
• You miss the puppy stage. Okay, I know I just cited this as an advantage but in some ways it is actually a disadvantage. There are many positives to starting with a puppy and while you avoid a lot of the cons if you start with an adult, you do miss all the positives.
• There may be several issues. Aggression, socialization problems, mouthing problems, and a variety of other issues can arise if you start with an adult gundog. It is not always easy to see these problems when you first purchase a gundog but they may be there and they may destroy any effort you make to work your adult gundog.
• You don’t know the dog’s history. The last disadvantage that I am going to mention is not knowing the dog’s history. Were there problems with the development? Did he receive all the proper vaccinations and medical treatments? Did he have any growing problems? Was he abused or neglected? Some things may be clear while others may not be evident until a major problem arises.

In the end, it is up to the individual to decide whether they want to purchase a puppy or start with an adult gundog. Both have their disadvantages and advantages but with a little work, you can have an excellent gundog no matter what age you purchase him at.

It is best to get your dog use to other dogs before you thke them on a shoot

While I like to focus on gun dogs, I find that introducing your gundog to other shooting dogs is done in a similar way than you would with any other dog. It can be a stressful time for both the dog and owner and it really needs to be done correctly, especially if it is the first contact your dog has with other dogs. The first experience can set the tone for all the other introductions and can really make or break a dog.

Generally, when it comes to introducing your dog, it is always best to expect the worst case scenario from happening. Even if you know the dogs or the owners of the dogs, there is no way to know how the dogs will react to each other. In addition, unless you know the trainer, you won’t be sure how the owner will feel about the interaction or what he will stop or allow to happen.

For this reason, you should always make sure that all the dogs are leashed before you start the introduction. While the dogs may be working together off lead, the initial introduction should be done in as controlled a situation as possible. If it is possible, I would recommend making the introduction before you begin hunting together. This gives you a bit more of an idea of how they will work together and will alleviate a lot of the worries you will have, especially when you are hunting with live rounds.

Start by bringing the dogs together on their leads but make sure there is a space between them. Start with 10 feet and watch both dogs to identify any signs of aggression on either side. Make sure to stay relaxed since your anxiety can trigger some forms of aggression in your dog. Also check with the other owner on how their dog is doing since they will know him much better than you do.

If there are no signs of aggression, it is time to shorten the distance. Place the dog in a “sit” and then have the other dog walk past her. Make sure that he never comes closer than the half the original distance. Once the dog has passed, repeat this with your dog walking past the other dog while he sits. Repeat several times and check for any aggression on either dog’s part.

When they can handle this, you can start moving towards each other head on. This can trigger some aggression so be very careful not to come too close to each other. Once they are comfortable, have the dogs sit about 3 feet from each other. Praise them for their good behavior and then gradually shorten the distance until they are able to greet each other by sitting and sniffing.

Each time you shorten the distance, take the time to allow them to adjust to the new closeness before moving closer again.

Once they have greeted each time, simply sit back and relax. Don’t let them off lead but give them more freedom in increments. First they can sniff faces, then they can start to sniff the body, then they can get closer and slowly start to interact in other ways.

When they don’t have any aggression indicators, and they are familiar with each other, you can begin working them together but it is important to still focus on the dogs and make sure that some aggression doesn’t occur when you are working them.

Be sure to read other posts on my blog, especally on breed type to understand more how they get on

I Just adore Young Gundog Puppies

In an early post, I have talked about how performing a health check on a puppy and I looked at things to look for when you are purchasing a puppy. Today, I would like to talk about how to actually select a gundog puppy to ensure that you have a greater chance of choosing the best possible puppy from the litter.

Before I get into those points, however, I would like to mention a few things. First and foremost, when you are deciding on a puppy it is important that you really decide on a breed and that you know the breed. While I offer a lot of information about dog breeds here, I always stress the importance of meeting a breed in person and seeing it in action. The reason for this is because some breeds look amazing on paper but in person, you might find that you clash with the breed.

Once you have researched and chosen your breed, it is time to start looking for a breeder. My general rule of thumb is that choosing a good gundog puppy will take about 6 to 12 months from start to finish.

Depending on your breed, you might find yourself on a long waiting list and it can take over a year to get a puppy in your preferred breed from your preferred breeder, especially if it is a rare breed, so be prepared to wait.

When you are looking for a breeder there are a few things to be aware of.

1. Make sure the breeder is breeding field dogs. Some breeds have seen a branch off from their original use and it is not uncommon to find a breeder that only breeds show quality dogs. This isn’t to say that the show quality can’t be used in the field but many hunters have found that they get better gundog puppies when they purchase from field bred dogs.

2. All the health clearances should be done. This means hips, elbows and eyes should be checked and cleared and a health check should be done prior to breeding. If the breeder doesn’t do clearances, then run; don’t walk, away from that breeder.

3. Find a breeder that is knowledgeable. Since you are looking for a gundog puppy, the best way to find one is to find a breeder that is knowledgeable in that area. Try to find one that actually hunts or, at the very least, competes in various field or hunt competitions. These are the breeders that are going to answer your questions and they will also lay the foundation in the puppies to ensure they create amazing gundogs.

4. Choose the picky breeder. Most people, when they meet a picky breeder, often feel very frustrated by the process. They often wonder why they need to fill in questionnaires and why they need to give a pint of blood as well, okay, I might be exaggerating on the latter but if your breeder isn’t picky, then they probably aren’t going to invest that much into their puppies to begin with.

Once you have a breeder and the litter is on the ground, it will be time to choose your puppy. To do this, you will want to first assess what you want in your gundog. Do you want it to be independent? Do you want it to be a dominant with other dogs? When you know the type of dog you want, you can get a clearer idea of the puppy you should choose. Even if you aren’t sure, there are few tips below that will help you choose a puppy.

1. Look for balance: When you go to see the puppies, take the time to observe them in motion. Look for the dog that has good proportion and has fairly good balance for its age. Generally, if you wait until the puppies are about 7 weeks old, you can get a good idea of how it will look as an adult. Find the puppy that has the closest attributes to what you are looking for.

2. Watch the puppies interact: It is often surprising to many people that puppies as young as 6 weeks old have their own hierarchy but it is true. There are more dominant dogs in the litter and more submissive. Watch the puppies playing together and determine how the hierarchy is arranged. From there you can choose a dog according to what you are looking for.

3. Determine their interest: Some gundog breeders will expose their puppies to birds before they leave their home but try to assess how the puppies react to things like that. Bring a toy or dummy and toss it into the litter, make sure it is off to the side. Watch the puppies that show an interest in it since these are usually the puppies that have more hunting instincts.

4. Check to see if they are healthy: Lastly, when you have narrowed your gundog puppy down to one or two puppies, do a health check. You can follow our health check or you can ask your vet for a sample health check.

Choosing a gundog puppy can be fairly easy and it is important to make the final decision based on everything I mentioned as well as your gut instinct. If for any reason a puppy just doesn’t sit well with you, then don’t purchase it. In addition, make sure you really take the advice of the breeder since they will often know the puppies much better than you can in one visit and will point you in the direction of the best dog.

At The Moment Me And Ron Are Filming A Video For Training Your Gundog Puppy From Start To Finish, For More Info

Click Here Gundog Training

As you have seen in the past few weeks, there are a number of hereditary health problems that can occur in gundogs. These are all very serious and while there are a number of things that you can do to reduce the risk of these problems, there will always be a small chance that your gundog can get that disease.

While I have talked about hereditary health problems, I also feel that it is important to talk about non-hereditary health problems. These problems are actually ones that tend to confuse people because all of them are associated with certain breeds. In this case, many people assume that these are risks that are hereditary based but it is important to note that they aren’t.

All non-hereditary health problems are not hereditary. Any breed of dog, regardless of the breed’s predisposition, can have one of these health problems. They are caused for a number of reasons, many of them environmental, and they are not caused by a genetic inheritance.

That being said, there are some non-hereditary health problems that are seen more commonly in certain gundog breeds and those are the ones that I will be looking at in this article. In the future, I will have another article on other non-hereditary health problems but for now I would like to review five of them.

Gastric Torsion: Gastric Torsion, Torsion, Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus or Bloat is a very common health problem that is seen in many different breeds of dogs. While it is not a hereditary problem, it is one that is more commonly seen in breeds with a deep chest, such as the Labrador Retriever.

Gastric Torsion occurs when there is a sudden influx of gas in the stomach. This is caused by a number of factors but it has been linked to overfeeding, deep chests, old age, and blockages caused by expanded food. When it does occur, the stomach begins to fill up with gas and then distend and possibly twist.

When this occurs, the dog should have immediate treatment since it can lead to death if the dog does not have medical intervention. Symptoms for gastric torsion are hard to determine from other diseases but they include a distension of the stomach, symptoms of pain and distress such as panting and restlessness, vomiting, hypersalivation, weakness and loss of appetite.

Treatment for gastric torsion is usually surgery and there is a fatality rate of 10 to 60% depending on the severity of the condition.

Conjunctivitis: Another common health problem that can be seen in many gundog breeds is conjunctivitis. This is caused by an inflammation of the eye due to an irritant being trapped in the eye or more specifically in the protective coating the covers the eye called the conjunctiva.

When the conjunctiva becomes inflamed, the eye will begin to swell and will look red. The dog will also have a lot of discomfort and will begin rubbing the eye and face around their eyes. Usually there is a discharge coming from the eye, which only causes more problems for the dog.

Treatment of conjunctivitis is usually done with medication but in cases where it is severe, surgery may be needed.

Ear infections: Ear infections are quite common in many gundog breeds and are usually caused by a variety of reasons. Generally, most dog breeds that have pendulous ears, ears that hang down, are prone to ear infections since those ears will trap dirt, debris and moisture much easier than other types of ears.

When the moisture is trapped, the dog’s ear will become inflamed and an ear infection will ensue. Ear infections can be treated easily with medication from your veterinarian but it is easier to prevent them. Make sure that your dog’s ears are kept clean and dry them after your dog has been in the water.

Cold Tail: When an owner first experiences cold tail, there is actually a lot of worry involved. Generally, cold tail occurs after the dog has been in water, both cold and warm, or the dog was out in cold weather for a certain period of time.

What cold tail is is actually a limpness that occurs about three or four inches up on the tail. The end result is a tail that looks almost like it has been sprained and it simply hangs from the limp spot in the tail.

Generally, most dogs are not affected by cold tail but some dogs may experience pain at the site of the “break.” Treatment of cold tail is to simply allow it time to heal. Usually, the dog’s tail will be healed within two weeks but if you are concerned about any pain, you may want to seek medical attention for your dog.

Demodectic Mange: Also known as Demodex is a skin problem that is caused by a microscopic mite, known as the Demodex Canis, that burrows into the dogs skin. Generally, many dogs can live with the mite in their skin without any problems but when there is an imbalance, the mite causes a skin infection in the dog.

This is skin disease can range in severity and my only be a small patch of mild red skin or a scaly lesion on either the leg or face of the dog to a full mange where the dog has scaly skin over its whole body, patchy fur and large bald spots.

Demodectic mange is not contagious between older dogs, however, it is paused between the mother and puppy when the latter is first born and if it hasn’t contracted the might by the first few days, it generally won’t contract it.

The treatment for demodectic mange is usually a dip but treatment should be discussed with a veterinarian fist. If your dog is female and has demodectic mange then it should not be bred.

Part 2 will be out soon so keep reading, for hereditary problems see all posts under the health and wellbeing category

2 Red Vizsla Out Hunting

The Vizsla, which is also known as the Hungarian Pointer or Hungarian Vizsla, is a versatile hunting dog that can be distinguished by its slender build and short smooth coat that ranges in color from pale yellow to dark mahogany, with golden rust being the preferred color.

The Vizsla is an ancient hunting dog and is believed to have originated in the area of Hungary. They have been prized hunting dogs for centuries and one look at a Vizsla in the field is enough to understand why. These dogs are idea for pointing but they have proven their worth as both flushing dogs and retrievers.

Generally, the Vizsla is a very active dog. They thrive when they have a job to do and work even better when they are with their family. They are not the best breed to have in apartments and they are also not the best breed to be used as kennel dogs. They need human interaction and socialization and can easily become very timid and shy if they do not have that.

In addition, the Vizsla is not a breed for the novice dog owner. They need ample training and socialization and they can be high strung without the proper guidance. When they do have that guidance, they can be a joy to have around and you can find them, more often than not, at the feet of their owner, whether they are at home or in the field; that is, unless there is a job to do.

Pro’s and con’s of owning a Vizsla.

The Vizsla is an old breed of gundog that is happy in both the field and at home. They are full of energy and have proven to those who own them that they can apply that energy constructively in the field. They are a versatile breed that can be at home in a wide range of roles on the field but they are not a breed for everyone, especially a novice dog owner. This is a breed that requires a lot of training, patience and socialization but the effort always pays off when you finally see your Vizsla in the field.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Vizsla breed and they have been cherished as a versatile working dog. They are definitely a dog to take notice of in the field and are sure to impress even the most seasoned hunter.

• They are a versatile gundog that can be used for flushing, pointing and retrieving a wide range of prey, not just waterfowl or upland birds.
• They do well with many other pets and can thrive in a multi-dog family.
• They can do well as family dogs but are better suited for homes with older children due to their energy level and rambunctiousness.
• While the Vizsla is considered to be a regular shedder, they are actually very easy to groom and have a low doggy smell to their skin, which means they only need an occasional bath.
• The breed is considered to be a fairly hardy breed.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Vizsla.

• They are very energetic and require about 60 minutes of exercise every day.
• Vizslas need to be properly socialized. If they aren’t, they can be very timid and this can be lead to other behavioral problems.
• They are not recommended for first time owners since they can be difficult to train and they can be stubborn.
• They are not the ideal dog for an apartment since they have high energy levels and they really need a well fenced area to run in.
• Vizslas are often coined “Velcro dogs” and prefer to be with their owners at all times. They are not the best dog for kennels and they will suffer from separation anxiety if they are left alone for long periods of time.
• Some Vizsla can be very high strung so it is very important to see the parents before purchasing.
• Vizslas are considered to be chewers so a lot of effort will need to be made to keep them from chewing items around the house.

Health Issues:

The Vizsla is a very healthy breed and has few diseases and disorders that are considered to be hereditary. That being said, hip dysplasia is seeing an increase in the breed, as are a number of other diseases. To make it a bit easier for you, we have listed all of the diseases that have been seen in the breed, although they are at lower occurrences than in other breeds. To prevent these diseases, it is important that you make sure that all health checks have been done on the parents and that the breeder is using healthy breeding stock. If you doubt at any time that they are, look for a new breeder.

• Hip Dysplasia
• Hemophilia A
• Lymphosarcoma
• Cataracts
• Allergies
• Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)
• Hemangiosarcoma
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy
• Epilepsy

Height & Weight:

The Vizsla is a medium sized hunting dog that should be light in build and should never be overweight. In fact, a lot of emphasis is placed on the dog having a brawny appearance and they should be very sinewy as well. In addition to build, height is also very important with the Vizsla and the ideal specimen should be no taller or shorter than 1.5 inches outside the breed standard, with breed standard being the best.

The size of a Vizsla Gundog is:

Males: 22 to 24 inches (56 to 61 cm) tall and 45 to 60 pounds (20 to 27 kg)
Females: 21 to 23 inches (53 to 58 cm) tall and 40 to 55 pounds (18 to 25 kg)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

When it comes to grooming, the Vizsla is actually a very easy dog to tend to. This is because of their close lying, short coat that is also very dense and smooth. The coat does not pick up a lot of debris in the field, so they require only minimal brushings because of it.

Still, a Vizsla is an average shedder so they will need to be brushed about once a week to keep dead hair to a minimum. Also, it is important to keep the dog clean by wiping it down with a damp cloth on a weekly basis. Generally, the Vizsla does not require regular bathing and can be washed once or twice a year.

The last step for grooming a Vizsla is to check the ears and keep them clean of any build-up or debris and to keep the nails trimmed to prevent splitting or tearing.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 14 years

History:

While the Vizsla is not a well known breed, it is not a new breed. In fact, it is one of the oldest breeds alive today and it can be traced back to about the 10th Century AD or even earlier. There is actually no clear history on the breed but we do know that the breed is descended from the hunting dog that was used by the Magyar, who settled in and around Hungary.

In addition, we know that the Vizsla was a favorite breed of dog for Hungarian nobility, who cherished the dogs for their ability to hunt. The breed proved to many that they were a versatile hunting dog that could flush out many types of prey from game birds to wild boar. They could also be trained to move quietly towards quarry and later it was established that the breed could also point and retrieve prey.

Despite their versatility, the Vizsla began to dwindle in number and was almost wiped out by both world wars. If it wasn’t for the dedication of a handful of breeders, the Vizsla would have been lost before the end of World War II.
Luckily the breed survived, and the first Vizsla to be imported into the United States was in the 1950’s. The Vizsla was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1960 and today, while it is still a rare breed, it has been recognized as a versatile hunting and working dog and has been used as both hunting and service dogs.
Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR