Above is the first part of Sam in Pre-training, to get the other 3 free videos click on Gundogs

Right Back To How To Use Your Voice to Train Gundogs
If you look at gundog training in its basic form, then voice seems very important and it also seems like the only way to show a dog what you want it to do. Thankfully, however, that is not usually the case and as most sportsmen and women will know, dogs in the field cannot always hear their handlers, especially if they are working out in front of their handler.

Voice training goes so much farther than simply giving a command and how you use your voice can help you not only train your dog but also build a sustainable bond with him, which will only benefit you when you are out in the field.

When we look at voice training, we are actually looking at the tone of voice. This is something that you should be aware of and you should think in terms of several tones.

• Conversation Tone: I have found that everyone talks to their dogs and will usually use the same tone that they use with adults in a give and take conversation. This is a relaxed tone, the tone that tells the dog that they can relax and don’t have to be on their toes and ready to obey a command. It is important that you train yourself to never use this tone when training or giving a command because it has more of a “maybe” to it and the dog may decide that maybe is good enough and he doesn’t really need to do something.

• Harsh Tone: This is a hard tone for a lot of people to pull off but a harsh tone is not a yelling tone. Actually, yelling does not accomplish anything except negatives. A harsh tone has more growl to it than pitch and it is a tone that you will use to correct the dog’s behaviors. If the puppy is chewing something, a firm growl “No,” with a gentle correction will teach the dog that they are doing something wrong. This is a step in training that can be done very early with a dog and will continue through your dog’s life.

• Command Tone: If you are going to use this tone than you really need to train yourself to follow through on it. This is the strong tone that tells the dog there will be no arguments about things. Commands should be given once and should be delivered in a clear voice that is commanding.

• Praise Tone: When your dog is doing something good, a chipper voice that is filled with pleasure is the perfect way to let your dog know that they are doing something good. It is important to mention that praise should never be bouncy and it shouldn’t make the dog break from a command. If a dog is sitting and holding and you praise him for holding, “Good dog!” it shouldn’t be done in a manner that makes him jump up and break the hold. Instead, he should remain in position and only a small tail wag is evidence that the dog has heard the praise.

• Play Tone: The last tone is the tone that you can lavish praise or play with your dog with and should never be done during a training session. It can be done once training is done and it gives your dog permission to have a little fun after a hard training session.

As you can see, each tone has its set time to use and it can go a long way to training your dog. Not only does it make it clear to your dog what he needs to know but it also alerts your dog to when he needs to focus and when he doesn’t.

If you want to know more on training your Gundogs using your voice or have a new dog to train you may be interested in our weekly video training course which will be starting within the next 3-4 weeks, click here gundog training to register your interest and get 4 pretraining videos for free,

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Ron Likes All His Dogs In Kennel's I Kind Of Disagree

Before I begin this blog post today, I just want to start off by saying that there really is no right way or wrong way to house your gun dog. Every breed, dog and owner will have different success and opinions on where a gun dog should be kept but when it comes down to the actual statistics of success, it is usually six to one and half dozen to the other.

Basically, that being said there are a number of breeds that do not thrive in a kennelling situation and you will find that I mention this in all the breed profiles that you will find throughout this site. In addition, every trainer will feel differently about housing issues but regardless of popular opinion, there are many pros and cons to keeping your gundog outside and I would like to address those today.

The Pros of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Like everything, there are always a number of pros that will come into play when you make your decision on housing your hunting dog and it is very important to look at them. Many trainers feel that the pros far outweigh the cons and often feel that housing a gundog inside will not only affect their training but will also destroy any potential to do so. That belief, in itself, is a good reason why you should kennel outside but it isn’t the only reason.

The gundog’s training is more controlled: This is one of the major pros of keeping your gundog in a kennel. When a gundog lives inside there are many bad habits that can occur. First, you are constantly training your dog and sometimes those lessons are very negative.

Since the gundog is given free reign of a house, he is less likely to listen when told to do something such as sit in place. Also, he is more likely to get into things that capitalize on his natural instincts. If he gets into something that would bring a correction, it can inadvertently teach him to ignore his natural hunting instincts.

A dog that is kept in a kennel is not constantly learning or capitalizing on negative behaviors and you can really say when and what he is learning or being trained to do.

The gundog has his own space: Something that is another pro is that the gundog has his own space outside. This is his room where he goes when training is over and he can take a break. It also provides a strong split from work and rest and your dog will know that he is going to be working the minute you open up the kennel door.

The gundog is eager to train: One behavior that most trainers have seen with their hunting dogs is the fact that they are always very eager to train. When their owners come up to the kennel, they know that now is the time to get out and get active. They are very excited to get to work and receive praise for all of their hard work.

In addition, training is a great way to break up some of the boredom the dog will feel in the kennel. This means that training, and hunting, is fun for the dog and he will usually be much easier to handle when you take him out since he is striving for his rewards and for a nice outlet for his energy.

The Cons of keeping your hunting dog outside:

Since I have mentioned the pros of keeping your gundog outside, it is only appropriate that I go over a few of the cons that can occur when you house your gundog outside.

The gundog is not well socialized: Although this is not the case with all kennel raised gundogs, it can be very easily since socializing is often overlooked by all dog owners, regardless of how their dog is used.

A gundog that is kept outside may not have much opportunity to learn about interacting with other people and animals and may become aggressive or timid when they are around anyone other than their owner and trainer.

The gundog may not bond: Again, another thing that may or may not happen but since a gundog is not interacting on a regular basis with their owners; they may not have as strong of a connection to them. If an owner takes the time to interact with his dog several times per day, then this bond will be built but if interaction is minimal, then the bond may not develop and you won’t have a dog that performs to his best potential.

The gundog may have behavioral problems: Remember, a kennel is a dog’s room and if you keep your gundog outside, he may become used to being king of that kennel. This can lead to dominance issues during training and it can also lead to territorial aggression.

In addition, gundogs that are kept outside, especially if it is a breed that is not suited for it, may begin to exhibit separation anxiety and will become destructive, may dig and will often bark, which can be a nuisance to both you and your neighbors. Lastly, the gundog may not housetrain completely and this can be a problem if you need to have him inside for any reason.

Even with the pros and cons, housing your dog is up to the individual owner and trainer and it is possible to utilize both your house and an outdoor kennel so that your gundog is given the best of both worlds with all the advantages.

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Traditionally, many trainers will recommend that your gundog runs a beat that takes them 25 yards from you. Although this may not seem like much, if your dog is flushing that far away, they are actually doubling the distance, making the beat a 50 yard run (25 in one direction, 25 in the other), and 25 yards out. At the greatest distance, the flushed game would be too far for a successful shoot, and that is if you even saw it. For this reason, it is recommended that you keep the beat only 10 yards in distance so you have more opportunity to shoot.

Now that you know the distance, let’s look at teaching your gundog to beat. First, your gundog should already be trained to take directions from you off lead. If he doesn’t, you will neeed to move with your dog to teach a beat. The very first time you beat with your gundog, make sure you have your dog beating upwind.

Next, set up the environment. Create a few piles of sticks and debris to simulate the bushes that he will encounter in the field. Place a cage with a rabbit or bird in one of the piles. After you have the first area set up, walk in a straight line across the field and set up another area. Repeat until you have a line of piles on either side that your dog can run back and forth to.

Once your environment is set up, start to lead your dog through it. Direct them to the first set of piles. Let him sniff around the clump before you direct him to the next pile in the set. Make sure that he checks each pile until he finds the penned animal. It is also important that your dog is moving in front of you when you do this, even if you have to lead him to the pile since he will need to be ahead of you when you are in the field.

After he has checked all the piles, give the whistle to turn and then direct him across the beat to the next pile of sticks. Repeat until he has checked all the piles and then send him to the third series of piles. Repeat for each pile that you have so that your dog is moving back and forth across the field in front of you. Move forward yourself in a gradual manner, mimicking what you would do on an actual shoot.

If your dog diverts from the beat, draw him back with the whistle and redirect him. If he doesn’t listen, draw him back again and then physically move him towards the piles you want him to go. Make sure you give the whistle again as you redirect him so he is sure of the way you want him to go.

When you first start training your gundog for flushing, it is important to start small and to work in a secure area where he can’t run off. As his skill and knowledge increases, you can increase the size of your workspace and can start to move into an actual field that will present him with distractions.

Below is a chart of a classic upwind beat.

I Had a Harder Problem Than Most As Charlie Was a Rescue Dog

Every person who has ever brought home a small puppy has been faced with the same problem, naming him. Some people have a name chosen long before they find the puppy, while others will simply sleep on it but in the end the puppy is named and officially becomes a part of the family. I had a even harder job with Charlie asd he had a name when i got him, but the rescue kennel never tells you what it is.
While the goal is to have your gundog become a part of your family, choosing a name for your hunting dog or dogs can be a bit more involved than simply assigning a name. There are a number of factors that should come into play and you should really take the time to think about them before you choose a name.

When it comes to names, there are actually two different names that you are going to want to think about; the call name and the registered name. Generally, when you purchase a hunting dog, many people will purchase from registered hunting dogs. This means that they are trying to find the best dogs they can and they will also be registering their dogs with the local kennel club.

While a registered name can be just about anything, there are a few things you should consider. First and foremost is how that name is going to sound. Will you be embarrassed by it or proud to have a dog by that name? If the dog is only going to be used for hunting and nothing else, then the name isn’t going to matter but if you are going to be training your dog in field trials or you are going to be breeding your hunting dog, then you will want a strong name that you don’t mind having associated with your kennel.

One common practice for hunting dogs is to use part of the dam’s or sire’s registered name for the puppy’s registered name. Generally, a female will have her dam’s or other females in her pedigree, name or combination of the name. For males, it would be the sire’s or subsequent males in the pedigree. Take one or two names from the parents and combine them with a name that you like. This will usually create an excellent registered name and then you can forget about it until it is time for breeding or assigning a title to your hunting dog.

One last thing about registered names, it doesn’t have to match or even have anything to do with your call name. You can have a registered dog called Turner’s Savage Hunter and his call name could simply be Joe; the registered name is for identifying your dog in a large kennel but the call name is something that will really show his personality.

Now that we have looked at the registered name, let’s look at the call names. As I have already said, this is the name that will really define the dog’s personality and will give the dog character. This is the name that you will use both in the field and in the house so there are a few points that you will want to consider before choosing your name.

First, never choose a name from a Hunting Dog Name list, unless it is one you can see using. While these lists are fun to look at, not all of them really take into consideration what a dog’s name should be like in the field. They are purely for looks, sort of speaking, and usually they don’t serve as a good functioning name.

Second, find a name that you like and one that you won’t have a problem saying in front of people. While naming the dog, Nimrod, may appease your interest in ancient mythology, it might be a bit embarrassing to say in a group of other hunters.

Third, make sure the name only has one or two syllables. This makes saying the name much easier on the field and it is more likely to roll off the tongue much easier. A name that is more advanced with three or more syllables takes too long to say and can be annoying in the field.

Lastly, make sure it doesn’t sound similar to a command that you will use in the field. Remember you will be giving those commands from a distance and if the dog is unsure whether you are saying their name or giving a command, he won’t perform to the best of his ability.

After those points, it is simply a matter of choosing a name that you enjoy and one that suits your dog. If you are naming a group of hunting dogs, make sure that each dog has a name that is distinct from the other so there is no confusion. Tom, Dick and Harry may not be the most original but there is no way that they sound the same.

It is best to get your dog use to other dogs before you thke them on a shoot

While I like to focus on gun dogs, I find that introducing your gundog to other shooting dogs is done in a similar way than you would with any other dog. It can be a stressful time for both the dog and owner and it really needs to be done correctly, especially if it is the first contact your dog has with other dogs. The first experience can set the tone for all the other introductions and can really make or break a dog.

Generally, when it comes to introducing your dog, it is always best to expect the worst case scenario from happening. Even if you know the dogs or the owners of the dogs, there is no way to know how the dogs will react to each other. In addition, unless you know the trainer, you won’t be sure how the owner will feel about the interaction or what he will stop or allow to happen.

For this reason, you should always make sure that all the dogs are leashed before you start the introduction. While the dogs may be working together off lead, the initial introduction should be done in as controlled a situation as possible. If it is possible, I would recommend making the introduction before you begin hunting together. This gives you a bit more of an idea of how they will work together and will alleviate a lot of the worries you will have, especially when you are hunting with live rounds.

Start by bringing the dogs together on their leads but make sure there is a space between them. Start with 10 feet and watch both dogs to identify any signs of aggression on either side. Make sure to stay relaxed since your anxiety can trigger some forms of aggression in your dog. Also check with the other owner on how their dog is doing since they will know him much better than you do.

If there are no signs of aggression, it is time to shorten the distance. Place the dog in a “sit” and then have the other dog walk past her. Make sure that he never comes closer than the half the original distance. Once the dog has passed, repeat this with your dog walking past the other dog while he sits. Repeat several times and check for any aggression on either dog’s part.

When they can handle this, you can start moving towards each other head on. This can trigger some aggression so be very careful not to come too close to each other. Once they are comfortable, have the dogs sit about 3 feet from each other. Praise them for their good behavior and then gradually shorten the distance until they are able to greet each other by sitting and sniffing.

Each time you shorten the distance, take the time to allow them to adjust to the new closeness before moving closer again.

Once they have greeted each time, simply sit back and relax. Don’t let them off lead but give them more freedom in increments. First they can sniff faces, then they can start to sniff the body, then they can get closer and slowly start to interact in other ways.

When they don’t have any aggression indicators, and they are familiar with each other, you can begin working them together but it is important to still focus on the dogs and make sure that some aggression doesn’t occur when you are working them.

Be sure to read other posts on my blog, especally on breed type to understand more how they get on

Hope You Enjoy This Video Overview Of The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a medium sized hunting dog that is known for their beautiful red coat that often brings to mind the coat of a Golden Retriever. In fact, many people often mistake these dogs for miniature Golden Retrievers but they are not like them in any way, except in appearance. In many of the dogs, a white tip on the end of their tail is also seen and is used in an interesting manner by the dog.

These are very hard working gundogs and while they can be very friendly to their own family members, they are usually reserved and distrustful of people they don’t know and they have a very strong prey drive, which makes them unsuitable for homes with smaller pets.

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a very active breed that requires a lot of exercise. They are used in a variety of ways in the field but have an interesting way of luring ducks, which is called Tolling.

This is a rare breed and while it may not have the personality of a lot of retrievers, there is little doubt that you can see some amazing things when you see a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever in the field.

Pro’s and con’s of owning a Flat Coated Retriever.

Like all breeds, there are a number of pros and cons involved with the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. While this is a very friendly breed that brings a unique dynamic to duck hunting and to the family, it is also not a breed that is suitable for everyone. They have a very strong prey drive and they also have a lot of energy.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever and if you are looking for a smaller, very energetic gundog, then this is definitely the breed for you.

• They do well in a variety of dwellings and will even do well in apartments.

• They are very friendly dogs and usually do well with children of all ages.

• They look similar to the Golden Retriever, only smaller. It is important to note that this is not a miniature Golden Retriever. They have different personalities than the Golden Retriever and there is a distinct difference between them. If you want to upset a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever breeder, simply refer to their dogs as a Golden Retriever.

• Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retrievers are very hard working dogs.

• They usually do very well with other dogs.

• They are very good at being a guard dog and will alert bark.

• They have a very unique way of luring birds called Tolling, which is where they get their name from.

• They are a rare breed.

• They are considered to be moderate shedders.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever. The breed has an active personality that does not work for everyone.

• They are a working breed so they have lots of energy. Expect to exercise your Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever about 30 to 60 minutes per day.

• Since the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a rare breed, there can be a long waiting list to purchase one.

• There is a small breeding pool for the breed and some diseases are beginning to occur in the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever.

• They will need to be groomed on a weekly basis.

• This is not a clean dog. Yes they are easy to groom but the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever delights in rolling in puddles and jumping in mud. They will quickly put that mud into the house the moment they come in.

• They are not as friendly as other retrievers and tend to be a bit reserved with people.

• They need to be properly socialized to avoid any aggression, especially stranger aggression.

• The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has a very strong prey drive. They are not recommended for homes with cats or other small animals. They will also chase squirrels and other animals in their yard if they are given the chance.

Health Issues:

When it comes to health, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a very hardy breed but there have been a number of diseases that have and are becoming a problem for the breed. This is due to the fact that there is a very limited number of dogs in the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever’s breeding pool. It is very important that you make sure that all health checks have been done on the parents and that the breeder is using healthy breeding stock. This will help not only lower the risk of having an unhealthy gundog but will also ensure that the disorders that are occurring in the breed are prevented. If you doubt at any time that they are, look for a new breeder.

• Hip Dysplasia
• Deafness
• Systemic Lupus Erythematosus (SLE)
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA)
• Auto-immune Hemolytic Anemia
• Hypothyroidism
• Hydrocephalus
• Chondrodysplasia
• Cataracts
• Epilepsy
• Megaesophagus
• Addison’s Disease
• Collie Eye Anomaly

Height & Weight:

The Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is a medium sized dog that is used for retrieving. They are usually slightly longer than they are tall and they are a breed that is known for its well balanced and appearance of being a powerful athlete. While there is a range of acceptable height, the idea size for a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is 19 inches (48 cm) for a male and 18 inches (46 cm) for a female.

The size of a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is:

Males: 18 to 21 inches (46 to 53 cm) tall and 45 to 51 pounds (21 to 23 kg)

Females: 17 to 20 inches (43 to 51 cm) tall and 37 to 43 pounds (17 to 20 kg)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

When it comes to grooming the medium coat of the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever, many people often feel that it will take a lot of time. In fact, it doesn’t take much time at all and a Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever can be brushed on a weekly basis to keep the tangles and mats from the hair.

In addition, you should always take the time to brush the coat whenever your dog comes in from the field since brambles and other debris can cause a lot of problems. Generally, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is considered to be a moderate shedder, except when they are blowing their coat.

The other grooming that should be done with this breed is to strip any mats out of the coat and to also keep the hair between the dog’s toes kept trim. Nails should also be kept trimmed and ears should be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent ear infections.

With bathing, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever should only be bathed when it is absolutely necessary and could probably done once or twice a year.

Life Expectancy: 12 to 14 years

History:

The history of the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever is not entirely clear. We do know that it originated in Little River, which is in Nova Scotia, Canada but we aren’t exactly sure how they came to be. It is believed that the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever was developed in the early 1800’s but there has been some evidence that the dogs may have existed as far back as the 17th century.

In fact, the dog was recorded by a Nicholas Denys (1598-1688) who wrote of the small red dogs and their amazing retrieving ability but many people believe that these dogs were ancestors of the Nova Scotia Duck tolling Retriever as the dog is today.

Still, even with that murky history behind them, most enthusiasts believe that the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever can own their origins to James Allen who crossed a liver colored Flat Coated Retriever with a St. John’s dog. From those dogs, the puppies were bred to Cocker Spaniels and the Irish Setter and it is believed that the Golden Retriever, Chesapeake Bay Retriever and the Collie were also introduced into the line.

Although it has a fairly long history, the Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever has remained a rare breed and was not recognized by the CKC until 1945 and the AKC until 2003.

Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, UKC, CKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

I Just adore Young Gundog Puppies

In an early post, I have talked about how performing a health check on a puppy and I looked at things to look for when you are purchasing a puppy. Today, I would like to talk about how to actually select a gundog puppy to ensure that you have a greater chance of choosing the best possible puppy from the litter.

Before I get into those points, however, I would like to mention a few things. First and foremost, when you are deciding on a puppy it is important that you really decide on a breed and that you know the breed. While I offer a lot of information about dog breeds here, I always stress the importance of meeting a breed in person and seeing it in action. The reason for this is because some breeds look amazing on paper but in person, you might find that you clash with the breed.

Once you have researched and chosen your breed, it is time to start looking for a breeder. My general rule of thumb is that choosing a good gundog puppy will take about 6 to 12 months from start to finish.

Depending on your breed, you might find yourself on a long waiting list and it can take over a year to get a puppy in your preferred breed from your preferred breeder, especially if it is a rare breed, so be prepared to wait.

When you are looking for a breeder there are a few things to be aware of.

1. Make sure the breeder is breeding field dogs. Some breeds have seen a branch off from their original use and it is not uncommon to find a breeder that only breeds show quality dogs. This isn’t to say that the show quality can’t be used in the field but many hunters have found that they get better gundog puppies when they purchase from field bred dogs.

2. All the health clearances should be done. This means hips, elbows and eyes should be checked and cleared and a health check should be done prior to breeding. If the breeder doesn’t do clearances, then run; don’t walk, away from that breeder.

3. Find a breeder that is knowledgeable. Since you are looking for a gundog puppy, the best way to find one is to find a breeder that is knowledgeable in that area. Try to find one that actually hunts or, at the very least, competes in various field or hunt competitions. These are the breeders that are going to answer your questions and they will also lay the foundation in the puppies to ensure they create amazing gundogs.

4. Choose the picky breeder. Most people, when they meet a picky breeder, often feel very frustrated by the process. They often wonder why they need to fill in questionnaires and why they need to give a pint of blood as well, okay, I might be exaggerating on the latter but if your breeder isn’t picky, then they probably aren’t going to invest that much into their puppies to begin with.

Once you have a breeder and the litter is on the ground, it will be time to choose your puppy. To do this, you will want to first assess what you want in your gundog. Do you want it to be independent? Do you want it to be a dominant with other dogs? When you know the type of dog you want, you can get a clearer idea of the puppy you should choose. Even if you aren’t sure, there are few tips below that will help you choose a puppy.

1. Look for balance: When you go to see the puppies, take the time to observe them in motion. Look for the dog that has good proportion and has fairly good balance for its age. Generally, if you wait until the puppies are about 7 weeks old, you can get a good idea of how it will look as an adult. Find the puppy that has the closest attributes to what you are looking for.

2. Watch the puppies interact: It is often surprising to many people that puppies as young as 6 weeks old have their own hierarchy but it is true. There are more dominant dogs in the litter and more submissive. Watch the puppies playing together and determine how the hierarchy is arranged. From there you can choose a dog according to what you are looking for.

3. Determine their interest: Some gundog breeders will expose their puppies to birds before they leave their home but try to assess how the puppies react to things like that. Bring a toy or dummy and toss it into the litter, make sure it is off to the side. Watch the puppies that show an interest in it since these are usually the puppies that have more hunting instincts.

4. Check to see if they are healthy: Lastly, when you have narrowed your gundog puppy down to one or two puppies, do a health check. You can follow our health check or you can ask your vet for a sample health check.

Choosing a gundog puppy can be fairly easy and it is important to make the final decision based on everything I mentioned as well as your gut instinct. If for any reason a puppy just doesn’t sit well with you, then don’t purchase it. In addition, make sure you really take the advice of the breeder since they will often know the puppies much better than you can in one visit and will point you in the direction of the best dog.

At The Moment Me And Ron Are Filming A Video For Training Your Gundog Puppy From Start To Finish, For More Info

Click Here Gundog Training

Using Discipline Is Still Hard For Me With Charlie

You know, when people are training their dogs, they are often left wondering one thing; how do they punish their gun dogs? There are so many trainers out there and so many different styles of training that it can be rather confusing. If you listen to one trainer, you should never discipline your dog, another trainer may suggest using a squirt bottle filled with water or vinegar and another may approach training in a “spare the rod, spoil the dog,” type of mentality.

Thankfully, as gundog owners, we can really decide on what works best with our dogs, although I would never recommend or endorse the latter method of disciplining. Instead, my approach to correcting your gundog is much nicer and can be very easy to do both on the field and off the field and in this article, I will look at how to discipline your gundog so you see results without damaging the bond you have with your dog.

Regardless of how good your gundog is, there will be periods of time that you will need to either correct or discipline your gundog. While it may be more desirable to ignore a negative behavior, it is not the best for the dog and any behaviors that are ignored will lead to bigger problems for your gundog.

When you do go to discipline your gundog there are a few things that you need to consider.

1. Make sure you use an even tone. Many people make the mistake of yelling at their dog. This does nothing but make the dog cower from you. The dog is not learning to stop a behavior; instead they are learning to fear you. Instead of yelling, use a firm voice that is slightly louder than your normal speaking voice. This is the voice that should mean business and it should have a touch of harshness to it.

2. Don’t use bad dog. One habit that we always seem to fall in is using the term “bad dog.” Stop using it because many times you dog is not being “bad” it is simply doing something that is natural to it. The main reason behind using your voice is to break the behavior. For this reason, use a word such as “no,” so your dog will stop and look at you.

3. Never use come before you discipline. If you want to break the command of come, then by all means, ask your dog to come to you before you discipline. Remember we want to reward our dogs when they come to us so if your dog needs to be disciplined, you go and get him instead of calling him.

4. Don’t hit your dog. Hitting your dog never solves anything and will usually just cause more damage than if you had ignored the behavior. To make it a physical correction, calmly take the dog by the scruff of the neck and firmly pull on it. This should not be a shake but just a simple pull that alerts the dog that you are not happy. Do not hurt your dog when you do this.

5. Stay calm. Lastly, make sure you stay calm when you discipline your dog. If you are waving your arms and behaving in an angry way, your dog is going to feel really threatened. This will cause your dog to be scared of you and will damage your bond with your gundog.

Remember that when you do discipline your gundog that it is short. It shouldn’t be a punishment that will last for a long time but more of a quick correction that is forgotten by you shortly after it is done. Also, make sure that you only discipline your gundog if you absolutely need to. The best training only uses correction less than 5% of the time and the rest of the training is done with positive

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2 Red Vizsla Out Hunting

The Vizsla, which is also known as the Hungarian Pointer or Hungarian Vizsla, is a versatile hunting dog that can be distinguished by its slender build and short smooth coat that ranges in color from pale yellow to dark mahogany, with golden rust being the preferred color.

The Vizsla is an ancient hunting dog and is believed to have originated in the area of Hungary. They have been prized hunting dogs for centuries and one look at a Vizsla in the field is enough to understand why. These dogs are idea for pointing but they have proven their worth as both flushing dogs and retrievers.

Generally, the Vizsla is a very active dog. They thrive when they have a job to do and work even better when they are with their family. They are not the best breed to have in apartments and they are also not the best breed to be used as kennel dogs. They need human interaction and socialization and can easily become very timid and shy if they do not have that.

In addition, the Vizsla is not a breed for the novice dog owner. They need ample training and socialization and they can be high strung without the proper guidance. When they do have that guidance, they can be a joy to have around and you can find them, more often than not, at the feet of their owner, whether they are at home or in the field; that is, unless there is a job to do.

Pro’s and con’s of owning a Vizsla.

The Vizsla is an old breed of gundog that is happy in both the field and at home. They are full of energy and have proven to those who own them that they can apply that energy constructively in the field. They are a versatile breed that can be at home in a wide range of roles on the field but they are not a breed for everyone, especially a novice dog owner. This is a breed that requires a lot of training, patience and socialization but the effort always pays off when you finally see your Vizsla in the field.

The Pro’s

There are many good points about the Vizsla breed and they have been cherished as a versatile working dog. They are definitely a dog to take notice of in the field and are sure to impress even the most seasoned hunter.

• They are a versatile gundog that can be used for flushing, pointing and retrieving a wide range of prey, not just waterfowl or upland birds.
• They do well with many other pets and can thrive in a multi-dog family.
• They can do well as family dogs but are better suited for homes with older children due to their energy level and rambunctiousness.
• While the Vizsla is considered to be a regular shedder, they are actually very easy to groom and have a low doggy smell to their skin, which means they only need an occasional bath.
• The breed is considered to be a fairly hardy breed.

The Con’s

As with all dog breeds, there are a number of cons that should be taken into consideration before you purchase a Vizsla.

• They are very energetic and require about 60 minutes of exercise every day.
• Vizslas need to be properly socialized. If they aren’t, they can be very timid and this can be lead to other behavioral problems.
• They are not recommended for first time owners since they can be difficult to train and they can be stubborn.
• They are not the ideal dog for an apartment since they have high energy levels and they really need a well fenced area to run in.
• Vizslas are often coined “Velcro dogs” and prefer to be with their owners at all times. They are not the best dog for kennels and they will suffer from separation anxiety if they are left alone for long periods of time.
• Some Vizsla can be very high strung so it is very important to see the parents before purchasing.
• Vizslas are considered to be chewers so a lot of effort will need to be made to keep them from chewing items around the house.

Health Issues:

The Vizsla is a very healthy breed and has few diseases and disorders that are considered to be hereditary. That being said, hip dysplasia is seeing an increase in the breed, as are a number of other diseases. To make it a bit easier for you, we have listed all of the diseases that have been seen in the breed, although they are at lower occurrences than in other breeds. To prevent these diseases, it is important that you make sure that all health checks have been done on the parents and that the breeder is using healthy breeding stock. If you doubt at any time that they are, look for a new breeder.

• Hip Dysplasia
• Hemophilia A
• Lymphosarcoma
• Cataracts
• Allergies
• Osteochondrosis Dissecans (OCD)
• Hemangiosarcoma
• Progressive Retinal Atrophy
• Epilepsy

Height & Weight:

The Vizsla is a medium sized hunting dog that should be light in build and should never be overweight. In fact, a lot of emphasis is placed on the dog having a brawny appearance and they should be very sinewy as well. In addition to build, height is also very important with the Vizsla and the ideal specimen should be no taller or shorter than 1.5 inches outside the breed standard, with breed standard being the best.

The size of a Vizsla Gundog is:

Males: 22 to 24 inches (56 to 61 cm) tall and 45 to 60 pounds (20 to 27 kg)
Females: 21 to 23 inches (53 to 58 cm) tall and 40 to 55 pounds (18 to 25 kg)

Note: Height is always determined from the ground up to the withers, also known as the highest spot on the shoulders, of the dog.

Grooming:

When it comes to grooming, the Vizsla is actually a very easy dog to tend to. This is because of their close lying, short coat that is also very dense and smooth. The coat does not pick up a lot of debris in the field, so they require only minimal brushings because of it.

Still, a Vizsla is an average shedder so they will need to be brushed about once a week to keep dead hair to a minimum. Also, it is important to keep the dog clean by wiping it down with a damp cloth on a weekly basis. Generally, the Vizsla does not require regular bathing and can be washed once or twice a year.

The last step for grooming a Vizsla is to check the ears and keep them clean of any build-up or debris and to keep the nails trimmed to prevent splitting or tearing.

Life Expectancy: 10 to 14 years

History:

While the Vizsla is not a well known breed, it is not a new breed. In fact, it is one of the oldest breeds alive today and it can be traced back to about the 10th Century AD or even earlier. There is actually no clear history on the breed but we do know that the breed is descended from the hunting dog that was used by the Magyar, who settled in and around Hungary.

In addition, we know that the Vizsla was a favorite breed of dog for Hungarian nobility, who cherished the dogs for their ability to hunt. The breed proved to many that they were a versatile hunting dog that could flush out many types of prey from game birds to wild boar. They could also be trained to move quietly towards quarry and later it was established that the breed could also point and retrieve prey.

Despite their versatility, the Vizsla began to dwindle in number and was almost wiped out by both world wars. If it wasn’t for the dedication of a handful of breeders, the Vizsla would have been lost before the end of World War II.
Luckily the breed survived, and the first Vizsla to be imported into the United States was in the 1950’s. The Vizsla was recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1960 and today, while it is still a rare breed, it has been recognized as a versatile hunting and working dog and has been used as both hunting and service dogs.
Grouping:

Gun Dog, AKC Sporting

Recognition:

CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

If You Keep Your Gundog In Your House You Need Housetraining

Some Gundog Owners dont House train their Dogs, Ron Never housetrains, But I believe even if you keep your dog in a kennel you should housetrain any dog.

I alwayslove having a puppy at home and always keep him or her in my house but one thing that I don’t love is having to housetrain them. Give me any other training and I will usually be right and ready to get started but then again, there isn’t a lot of middle of the night training sessions to deal with when I am doing other training.

Not that housetraining is that hard and it can be done very easily if you do one thing; train yourself before you train the puppy. Generally, the most problems that you are going to run into with training is going to be more about mistakes that you made and less about the puppy so it is important that you really take the time to properly train your gundog puppy.

Before we look at a few tips, I would like to mention three points that should be in your mind when you begin training. These are:

1. Train according to age: One of the biggest mistakes that I see is the lack of training that is applicable to your puppy’s age. First, you should always start training young, usually when your puppy arrives home at 8 weeks and it should never be put off until your puppy is older than 12. The best window of opportunity is between 8 and 12 weeks of age. Next, make sure that you are setting everything up according to their age. The younger they are, the shorter period of time your puppy can hold their bladder. The general rule of thumb is a half hour to an hour for every month of age. So a puppy that is two months old will hold their bladder for one to two hours. This is important during the night or while you are at work so that you can have someone come and let your little gundog puppy out in the middle of the day.

2. Keep an eye on your pup: Another problem with housetraining is not keeping an eye on your puppy. This is usually when the puppy goes off and has an accident inside. Basically, if your puppy is up, keep an eye on her. If you are too busy to watch her for a period of time, either put her in her kennel or leash her to your belt (this only works if you are sitting, such as working on the computer). When she wakes up, or starts to sniff around, you can take her right outside to go to the washroom.

3. Create a routine: If you want housetraining to work, you will need to create a routine for it. First, make sure that you are getting up, and going to bed at the same time. This will help your gundog puppy set her schedule as well. Next, feeding and watering should also be done on a schedule. While you may offer water all the time when you gundog is older, when they are puppies, only put it out for certain periods in the day (make sure she is getting enough water however). Free feeding and watering can be the death of training and it is really hard to determine when your puppy really needs to go. Also make sure that you have a set routine at night and that you slowly begin to stretch out the hours at night so eventually, your gundog puppy will be able to sleep through the night without having to go. Lastly, always use the same door, and the same routine when you go outside. This will teach your gundog to go for a certain door instead of just wandering around the house when she has to empty her blader.

Whew, those tips were really big but they are the basis of housetraining your gundog. The rest is actually just a matter of individual choice and will be done at your gundog puppy’s own speed and your ability to train them.

To properly train your dog, you should do the following:

• Always take your gundog puppy outside after she has eaten. The length of time between eating and emptying their bowels will be different with each dog so really pay attention to this. I had one dog that wouldn’t eliminate until 45 minutes after eating, even at 8 weeks old and another that emptied their bowels within 5 minutes of eating. The lesson here is the golden rule of “20 minutes” does not apply to most dogs.

• Never punish your gundog if they had an accident in the house. This does nothing for the training and may actually ruin the bond you are building with her. No bond, and there is no sense even starting any gundog training after this.

• If your dog is urinating (or other) in the house, break the behavior. This means that you either say, “NO!” loudly or you clap your hands. Basically, you want to startle enough for your gundog puppy to stop urinating. Once she does, pick her up immediately and take her right outside. When she gets there and continues to do her business, praise her for being such a good dog. (One thing I want to point out is that you should never overuse NO. If you are going to be using no in your other training, don’t use it for now. Any loud command that stops the behavior will work.)

And that is all there is to housetraining. If you want your dog to eliminate on command, which I do with all my dogs, wait until the dog is in the act of defecating (not urinating) and then say, “Do your business,) or whatever the command will be, and then praise the dog for doing it. This won’t teach your dog to go if they don’t have to but it can be a relief to use the command when you having been standing outside for 20 minutes waiting for your gundog to find that perfect spot.

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